Speaking of jazz, it's cliché but tried, true, and venerable –
no trip to New Orleans is complete without having a listen at
Preservation Hall, also in the Quarter. (Avoid nearby jazz plac-
es using similar-sounding names to lure patrons; there's only
one Preservation Hall, and shame on the others.) Gone are
the days when you'd pay your admission and stay all night;
now you get one hour-long set, but the lack of creature com-
forts makes an hour enough. You'll stand or sit on the floor or,
if you're lucky, score a no-back bench or a seat in a window.
The traditional jazz music – no dissonant noise here – is sub-
lime. Hint: Pay the few extra bucks online to reserve the set
you want, to avoid waiting in line.
