Now that you've worked up an appetite, let's look at the ar-
ray of eclectic food choices, where you might be tempted to
eat your betting money. There's something for everyone, but
the reasonably adventurous are best rewarded; exercising cu-
linary timidity here is like working only the flippers and think-
ing you're playing pinball.
The one must for a breakfast and a lunch or dinner is Moth-
er's, where tourists and locals alike queue up for excellent,
unfussy food and huge portions. It's in the warehouse dis-
trict, an easy walk from the Quarter, at the corner of Poydras
and Tchoupitoulas ("Chop" to the locals). For breakfast, arrive
early for the black outside of the baked ham on a homemade
biscuit. It's not pan-blackened à la Emeril, just baked perfectly
to within an inch of its life. When it's gone, it's gone, but if you
call the night before or at the crack of dawn, they'll put some
aside for you. If you miss it, go for the regular baked ham on
the biscuit. Lunches and dinners at Mother's are a thing to
behold: excellent gumbo, etouffee, jambalaya, po' boys, and
