TDN Weekend December 2016 Issue 9
Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1087484
other notables, including what they call debris: the roast beef detritus that falls to the bottom of the pan, to which they add a thin gravy. A worthy New Orleans staple is the po' boy, the lettuce, to- mato, pickle, and mayonnaise-dressed sandwich that can fea- ture anything from roast beef to hot sausage or fried oysters, shrimp, or catfish to soft shell crab. Po' boys got their name from when wives would send their working men – so-called poor boys – to job sites armed with these for lunch. My two favorites: the original Mahony's, in the neighborhood known as Uptown, and NOLA Poboys, which drizzles gumbo on their oyster and catfish renditions. Liuzza's by the Track, near Fair Grounds, has a stellar reputation for both po' boys and gumbo. Take a stand on who makes the better muffuletta: Central Grocery, which serves them cold, or Napoleon House, where they heat the salami, ham, Swiss cheese, provolone, and olive dressing sandwiches. My enthusiastic vote goes to Napoleon. Heating the sandwich works wonders, and the atmosphere is more inviting, with classical music wafting softly over speak- ers – a great place to enjoy your meal and a Pimm's Cup, whether you choose the palm-filled courtyard or the interior, which oozes history and grace. EXERCISING CULINARY TIMIDITY HERE IS LIKE WORKING ONLY THE FLIPPERS AND THINKING YOU'RE PLAYING PINBALL. LIUZZA'S