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152 C A R M E L M A G A Z I N E • S U M M E R / F A L L 2 0 2 0 C omforted by romantic Parisian cafés and childhood memories of leisurely lunches in rural France with his family, Chef Didier Dutertre launched Bistro Moulin in 2007. Today, the small but cozy-quaint restaurant above the tourist frenzy of Cannery Row is dog-eared in travel guides—but also the go-to favorite for locals seeking that delicious romance of France. Dutertre draws us in first with his accent, still thick and melodic, but his cuisine speaks the loud- est. He commands a small menu of bistro favorites—creating refined simplicity, the hallmark of any great chef. Simple, however, does not mean quick or convenient. In the states for more than 30 years, Duter tre, 63, still has not set foot in a fast-food chain. "Not in a million years," he says. "I can smell the over-used frying oil from 100 yards away!" Growing up, a "simple" meal for young Didier lasted hours, with fresh, local ingredients on display. "We spent a lot of time around the table," says Duter tre, a native of L'Aigle, a small town in Normandy. Holiday meals featured six courses, with seafood platters (oysters, crab, shrimp, langoustine), charcuterie, roast goose, beef, an assortment of cheeses, a green salad and then dessert. And, of course, wine, even for youngsters. When asked about the so-called French Paradox, the idea that people in France eat more butter and saturated fats than Americans but have less hear t disease, Duter tre credits wine (and a less stressful way of life) as the reasons. Dutertre began his culinary career at the age of 15, working his way through Europe and completing his formal training at the Ecole Hoteliere in Strasbourg, immersed in every aspect of the culinary arts—from wine to accounting. While working on the French Riviera, Dutertre met Gaston Georis, who recruit- ed him to work at Casanova in Carmel, where he spent 25 years in the kitchen. Today, Dutertre spends his free time sailing on the bay with his wife and restaurant partner Coleen, and frequently traveling back to his homeland. Q: Who most influenced your decision to become a chef? A: I always enjoyed being around the kitchen as a kid. I spent several summers with my uncle, who had a small farm with fowl, a vegetable garden, an orchard and a small vineyard in Provence. I was helping feed the animals and harvest fruits and veg- etables that we sold at nearby farmers markets. That was my initiation into the food culture, and it sparked my decision to become a chef. Q: Quite a few French expats have made their way to the Peninsula to make careers in the culinar y field. Why do you think that is? A: I'm not sure, but once you discover the riches that this place has to offer, it's easy to fall in love. Besides the climate and the scenery, we have all the resources that make the Peninsula an epicenter of gastronomy. Inviting French Fare at Bistro Moulin Chef Didier Duter tre Cr afts Classic Delights B Y L A R R Y H A R L A N D Today, the small but cozy-quaint restaurant above the tourist frenzy of Cannery Row is dog-eared in travel guides— but also the go-to favorite for locals seeking that delicious romance of France.