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S P O R T I N G C L A S S I C S 5 9 As May warms into June, the hatches erupt later and later in the day. After the green drakes, known as May Flies in France, various species of mayfly and caddis hatch. Nick's go-to flies become #14 Adams, light or dark Hendrickson, or brown caddis. Nymphing is frowned upon. A 5-weight is all one needs. During the week of the summer solstice, Nick and his clients will scout their beats during the waning afternoon, fish a bit if trout are rising, settle on the bank for a picnic dinner of game pâté, camembert, crusty bread and a chilled rosé or white if the day is hot. They'll finish with sweet pastries, coffee and maybe a wee dram of Calvados, the apple brandy of the region, or Armagnac. Then the serious fishing begins and continues until after 11 p.m. In addition to browns, some rivers hold grayling, Thymallus thymallus, a distinctly European species different from Arctic grayling native to Michigan, Montana, Canada and Alaska. A few rivers see runs of Atlantic salmon and sea trout, browns that spawn in freshwater and fatten in salt, but Ireland and the United Kingdom offer much better fishing for them than Normandy. Gourmet Fly offers lodging in bed and breakfasts or country homes. If you stay in the latter, each morning you may walk to the patisserie for warm croissants and then over to a café for expresso. Take the time to linger and soak up a bit of morning sun as the village comes to life. After all you didn't come all the way to fish in Normandy just for the trout. Ernie Schwiebert fished with Ritz, and they both agreed that one of the finest aspects about the Risle is Paris, about a two-hour drive away. There would be worse fates than to be forced to suffer a week in the City of Light and drive out every day to fish a different river. All of Normandy's best are within striking range, and Nick can provide guides or directions to beats you can fish by yourself. Little of Normandy's fine trout water can be fished without paying a fee. A day permit on the Risle runs 60 Euros and a license is another 10. Rates are similar on the other rivers. A room for two at a country manor bed and breakfast can be found for slightly less than 100 Euros per night. While in Normandy, plan to devote at least a day touring the beaches where the Allies came ashore only 80 miles to the northwest. If time is really tight and only half a day is available, go first to Pointe du Hoc. Deep craters and shattered concrete gun emplacements testify to the furious bombardment that preceded the assault where U.S. Army Rangers scaled its cliff with ropes and ladders borrowed from London's fire department. Then visit the U.S. Military Cemetery at St. Laurent where 9,387 soldiers, sailors and airmen are buried. More than half of them lost their lives on D-day and most had yet to turn 25. IF YOU WANT TO GO Contact Nick at Gourmetfly@ gmail.com or visit his website www.gourmetfly.com. Arkadi de Rakoff also offers guiding and accommodations through www. flyfishnormandy.com. If you plan on spending more than a week fishing in France, drive west to Brittany where the odds of catching Atlantic salmon and sea trout are considerably better, though browns are the main attraction. For more information about fishing in Brittany, contact Philippe Dolivet, at info@brittanyflyfishing.com. Note: John Ross is the author of The Forecast for D-day and the Weatherman behind Ike's Greatest Gamble from Lyons Press. Visit www.d-dayforecast.com.