Carmel Magazine

50 C A R M E L M A G A Z I N E • S U M M E R / F A L L 2 0 1 4 LOCALKNOWLEDGE John Pisto Celebrity TV Chef, Restaurateur, Par ty Thrower and Dining Innovator G rowing up on Spaghetti Hill in Monterey, John Pisto spent Sundays twirling pasta, stabbing meatballs, sopping up marinara with crusty bread and listening to the uproarious dialogue among Italians loving life. His family shared love through food, and with that foundation Pisto went on to become one of the Monterey Peninsula's most charismatic and influential restaurateurs. "With John ever y day is an adventure. He is in a class by himself," says Kevin Phillips, who helped run Pisto's many restaurants, including The Whaling Station and Paradiso Trattoria. "He's an innovator, and always has a desire to learn new things. With John it's always something fresh and new with high standards." Pisto star ted his career in the 1960s as chef at the Monterey Airpor t's restaurant, The Golden Tee. From there he opened The Captain's Gig on Fisherman's Wharf, wowing diners (including a young Clint Eastwood) with his fish 'n' chips. In 1971, Pisto, at that time a self-described hippie, opened the Whaling Station, which star ted by ser ving buffalo stew and bulgur wheat, but soon made national news when food writer Bill Rice of the Washington Post raved about Pisto's innovative technique of grilling fish over oak wood. In 1981 he shook the timbers of the Wharf by open- ing Domenico's with a white-tablecloth concept. Pisto always tried to break new ground. He was the first Wharf chef to introduce French techniques, the first to really promote ar tichokes, the first to have an all-local wine list and the first to source and ser ve wild mushrooms (he still is considered the local mushroom exper t). His syndicated television show "Monterey's Cookin' Pisto Style" made him an international celebrity. He filmed shows with Julia Child (they remained close friends until her death), Mario Andretti, Sammy Hagar and many more. In France, iconic chef Paul Bocuse rolled out the red carpet for Pisto. In Por tugal, Pisto hosted a cooking demonstration at the '98 World Expo in Lisbon. In China, he toured remote areas never seen by Westerners, tr ying exotic dishes, including one called "Three Squeak" that turned out to be mice. In return, he cooked the villagers pasta with eggplant and roasted peppers. Most of his adventures ended up on film, except for his legendar y par ties held at his Monterey home, including the booze-swilling, joke- telling, celebrity-filled soirees. "It's been a wild ride," he says. Q: What is it that makes you want to please people with food? A: I'm Italian! No, seriously, it all star ted when I was a teenager. My cousin Nino had a deli in Millbrae, and asked if I'd fill in. His deli had fresh corned beef, hot pastrami from a steam table, whole roasted turkey, fresh-baked breads—the whole nine yards. I got in there and star ted taking orders. I made these beautiful sandwiches and the customers responded with sincere gratitude. It was like magic to me. I knew then I wanted to feed people. Q: What's the biggest mistake restaurants make today? A: Today, restaurants have moved away from quality in favor of conven- ience. With food costs at an all-time high, dining out is a luxury for many. I say we should make the experience wor th their investment. Today's restaurants have cut so many corners everyone gets a corner table! At the Whaling Station we still have a server and a busser for each table. Your Caesar salad is prepared tableside using locally grown romaine hear ts, and our meats are hand selected and dry-aged to my specifica- tions in our own dry-aging room. Q: Describe the adventures and opportunities that filming "Monterey's Cookin' Pisto Style" has provided for you. A: When I began the show back in 1991, I had no idea it would still be on the air today. I've met so many terrific people, been to hundreds of uniquely beautiful places, and tasted a cornucopia of foods in the very place they originated—from couscous in Tunisia, roasted lamb in the mountains of Corsica, paella in Barcelona, to goat in China. What a way to taste the world! Having this opportunity to bring these people, places, and cultural foods to my viewers has been priceless. Q: You're winding down your career now, selling your last remaining restaurant, The Whaling Station. What are your feelings? A: I feel great! Every life is divided into segments. I just finished one and now it's time for another. Here's to another great adventure. Q: If you had one philosophy for life, what would it be? A: Make time for the little things. They're what make life worth living. Dinner parties, picnics, mushroom hunting, or whatever brings you togeth- er with the people that are important to you. — Larry Harland

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