Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/554642
S P O R T I N G C L A S S I C S 1 3 7 S pirits were high back at the lodge that night. Rum drinks flowed. We celebrated my first permit, first tarpon, first snook, my grand slam. We celebrated the great guides, the fabulous Cuban sunshine, and the endless fish-filled flats of Cayo Largo. Oh, yeah, and the end of old Cold War enmities between our two countries. A friendly Cuban permit had extended a warm welcome to his former enemy, an American. One week later President Obama met with Raoul Castro, laughing and shaking hands like old pals. Coincidence? I don't think so. IF YOU WANT TO GO W ith recent warming international relations with the US, Cuba and its fly fishing has never been easier to reach. Things are changing so rapidly that by the time this appears in print, the travel rules between our two countries may have changed again. That's why I recommend contacting Avalon Cuban Fishing Adventures. They are absolute professionals with years of experience in Cuba. Check out their beautiful website at cubanfishingcenters.com. Cayo Largo is one of their shore-based locations, but they also operate a fleet of motherships that cover vast areas of otherwise unreachable saltwater flats. Reports from other anglers confirm that the remote backcountry fishing is spectacular. I can't say enough good things about this outfitter. Their attention to detail, down to the exact weight of each fly, is unsurpassed. And their guides are simply the best you will ever get—in Cuba or anywhere else. The flats boats and motors are pristine and meticulously maintained. Due to the diversity of gamefish, we carried three rods in the boat at all times: an 8-weight for bonefish; a 10-weight for permit, baby tarpon, barracuda, and snook; and a 12-weight for giant tarpon. Floating lines work most of the time, though an intermediate or sinking-tip line can be helpful when fishing deeper channels for tarpon. The Avalon fly is all you'll need for permit, and you'll have a hard time keeping bonefish off it. The guides will provide these in a few sizes and weights. Virtually any other standard bonefish shrimp pattern works well: Peterson Shrimp, EP Shrimp, Vervakis Mantis Shrimp. For tarpon, the Tarpon Toad in black, red, purple, or bright greens and yellows, worked well. But standards such as the Cockroach and traditionally tied Black Deaths and Deceivers are popular too. Snook will also hit the Tarpon Toads or large shrimp imitations. For more information about Cuba's regulations. tours, and travel, visit cuba.com. As William—really smiling now— stowed the pole and got ready to start the engine for the run back to the lodge, I said, "William, I've decided that I am not going to give you a tip this week." William, always open for comedy, said, "Oh really? No tip?" "No," I said. "Instead, I'm calling Pope Francis and asking him to make you a saint." William smiled slyly. "Oh, that's too much. A small tip would be enough. Really." Will and I cracked up. We still had four more days of fishing with this smart and funny guide in one of the fishiest and most beautiful places we'd ever been.