Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/615498
110 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015/2016 OUR FINAL TASTING OF THE YEAR MADE use of Italian wines we had in inventory. After tasting through southern Italy earlier this year, we turned our attention and intentions northward. We came up with a tasting survey of different varieties, regions and price points— none too high—and that represented a sense of place in central and northern Italy. Team captain Mike Madrigale asked Christine Collado, Head Sommelier from Chef 's Table in Brooklyn, and Victoria James, Wine Director at TriBeCa's Piora, to join us. Our lineup included six whites and eight reds. Over all, the whites seemed more of a novelty, with none representing a taste of Italy. The best examples were mistaken for other wines—the sparkling Soave DOC was thought to be a Cava, and a Malvasia—historically grown in the islands—was reminiscent of a Gewürztraminer or Muscat. We started with a pair of Soaves, one spar- kling and the other still. The Soave Spumante Brut (DOC) presented an aromatic and easy alternative to Prosecco. "I think the underly- ing secondary notes give it a little more push and make it interesting," Victoria noted, which Christina agreed "drove the wine." The second Soave, also intrigued the panel with its Alpine aromatics, however, the wine fell flat on the mid-palate, not delivering the same liveliness hinted at in the nose. The panel (left to right): Christine Collado, Head Sommelier from Chef's Table in Brooklyn; Team Captain Mike Madrigale, Head Sommelier, Bar Boulud and Boulud Sud; and Victoria James, Wine Director at Piora in TriBeCa. North of Rome THE VARIED WINES OF CENTRAL AND NORTHERN ITALY ARE ANYTHING BUT TYPICAL by Lana Bortolot / photos by Doug Young team captain: Mike Madrigale, Head Sommelier, Bar Boulud, Boulud Sud