The Somm Journal

Dec 2015-Jan 2016

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{ }  1 15 DISH 5: Halibut, edamame, Granny Smith apple, kimchi bacon broth WINE 5: Domaine Maestracci 2014 É Prove Rosé, Corsica KERMIT LYNCH WINE MERCHANTS The kimchi bacon broth brings the delicate halibut into the next level of richness, with a delightful saltiness for more heft. This Corsican wine, made of two indigenous grapes Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu, which are co-planted in the same parcel then vinified together, sees a direct press, not saignée, and is aged strictly in stainless steel. The ripeness and fruitiness gives it lift to the saltiness of the kimchi broth. It's refreshing and flattering to the dish. DISH 6: Braised rabbit, bay scallops, English peas, caramelized carrot, cherries, sweet potato purée, gnocchi in a rabbit jus WINE 6: Dirty & Rowdy 2014 "Familiar" Mourvèdre, California DIRTY & ROWDY FAMILY WINERY "I didn't want to bring Pinot Noir, so I chose this more interesting and unique choice," Arnold said. With fewer than 800 cases of wine made by this producer, and an extremely limited production of this bottling—only 66 cases made. Hardy Wallace a partner in this venture, where the wine's made at PunchDown, a crush facility in Sonoma, uses all Mourvèdre from a collection of vineyards from Santa Barbara Highlands: Shake Ridge Ranch, Antle Vineyard, Skinner White Oak Flats and Skinner Stoney Creek. The cherries added touch of sweet fruitiness to the dish and the brightness of the wine is highlighted by the salinity of the rabbit. Ryan Arnold photographed at Paris Club Bistro & Bar in River North, Chicago, a Lettuce Entertain You restaurant. Ryan Arnold Sommelier and Divisional Wine Director for Lettuce Entertain You (LEYE) Ryan Arnold's wine career launched in 2004 with Lettuce Entertain You, after which he did stints importing and dis- tributing wine then circled back around to re-join the group in 2012. On a day-to-day basis, Arnold revels in managing som- melier teams. He educates them on sourcing and ordering wine, trains them on service and stresses the importance of constant tasting. On just a few nights a week does Arnold works the floor these days, since his primarily responsible is to assure wine is ordered for 20 restaurants, each with about 18 by-the-glass pours. "We replace wines on our lists about every six to eight months," Arnold says. If he tastes something he loves in a particular category, he'll replace it. "We reprint the wine list in house almost daily to reflect the changes," he says. "My favorite wines in the world are whites with weight and texture, but not due to cellar work like lees aging or wood," Arnold says. His three favorite Italian white regions and wines include Campania's Greco di Tufo and Falanghina, the Veneto's Garganega (Soave) and the Marche's Verdicchio, one of the most age-worthy white wines in his opinion. Arnold also co-founded Squire Wine Company, a group that promotes wine events and camaraderie in the Chicago sommelier community. Working in the industry for the past ten years has only whet his whistle. His enthusiasm hasn't waned. "I still find it so exciting to try something new," he says, and that's what we did at this pairing.

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