OR
S
moked, herbed, or coffee-dusted, wrapped in lemongrass or washed in stout, American cheeses
come in flavors and formats that could startle a purist. As they jostle for space in an increasingly
crowded cheese case, domestic cheesemakers are distancing themselves from European traditions
and creating distinctive wheels of their own. Their inspirations, which keep on coming, fuel an ongoing
debate about imitation versus invention and the appropriate use of the term "American original." Which
cheeses really deserve that prized designation?
Fresh ideas in mixed-milk varieties and creatively flavored washes and
wraps are differentiating a group of U.S. originals that pay homage to,
but also stand apart from, their European ancestors.
BY JANET FLETCHER
Cheese, American-Style
CA
UT
CO
WI
IN
VT
NY
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