Specialty Food Magazine

JUL-AUG 2012

Specialty Food Magazine is the leading publication for retailers, manufacturers and foodservice professionals in the specialty food trade. It provides news, trends and business-building insights that help readers keep their businesses competitive.

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Page 58 of 207

CHEESE FOCUS What's in a Name? Gouda isn't a name-protected cheese in Europe, so cheesemakers have a lot of lee- way in its preparation. Codex standards for Gouda call for cow's milk and a minimum fat in dry matter of 48 percent. Dutch law specifies pasteurized cow's milk, notes Betty Koster, proprietor of Fromagerie L'Amuse in Amsterdam, but that requirement is widely ignored. Farmstead Gouda, known as Boerenkaas (BOOR-en-kahss)—literally "farmer cheese"—must be made with raw milk, and many producers make and export Goudas with goat's or sheep's milk. A GOUDA GLOSSARY A brief look at some specialty Gouda-style cheeses: L'AMUSE: pasteurized cow's milk; from the same co-op that makes Beemster, but wheels are hand-selected and matured about two years. Amber color; huge butterscotch aroma; waxy, crystalline and creamy; like a salted caramel BEEMSTER XO: pasteurized cow's milk; minimum 26 months of age; aromas of butterscotch, caramel and whiskey; creamy, verging on fudgy; concentrated, malty and mellow EWEPHORIA: pasteurized sheep's milk; aged 4 to 12 months; butterscotch-colored interior with smooth, sweet and nutty flavor GOUDA GRIS: pasteurized goat's milk; aged about one year; golden, creamy paste; no coating on rind; scents of goat, caramel and earth; beefy near the rind GRASKAAS: a generic term for Gouda made with early spring milk, just after the cows are released from their barns to spring pasture; may be young or aged; said to be especially floral and creamy PRIMA DONNA: cow's milk; aged for one year; ivory rind; softer texture and more subtle flavor than Goudas that have been aged longer; sweet, nutty flavor with caramel notes TERSCHELLING: pasteurized sheep's milk; made on Terschelling Island; aged about seven months; fruity aromas; creamier and less sweet than Ewephoria WILDE WEIDE: Montbéliard breed raw cow's milk (most Gouda is made from Holstein milk); aged about 15 months; pale honey-colored paste; scent of toffee, whiskey and toasted nuts; crumbly/sandy texture yet creamy Summer Fancy Food Show Booth 5552 44 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE ❘ specialtyfood.com

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