5 6 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t
have long
been incorporat-
ing spirits into their culinary repertoire. Like wine, spirits have a kind of
purposeful utility—alcohol readily bonds with fat and water molecules,
which allows it to carry aromas and flavor. They can add a sweet kick to
glazes, a subtle, if smoky, undertow to game meats and a welcome boozy
pop to desserts. Moreover, spirits can add a poetic flourish to a dish—a
means of conveying regional storytelling through flavor that can be as
satisfyingly dramatic as a cuisine's native spice.
Three chefs took up our challenge, and our journey began in Seattle at
a bar-driven restaurant that radiates warmth and energy in a city that's
often shrouded in gray. Nightly specials come off the applewood-fired
rotisserie at a furious pace, including whole roasted chickens and crispy-
skinned trout. It's a modern-meets-rustic Northwest-inspired menu, and
it's here that Executive Chef Nathan Crave and Line Cook Matt Brous-
sard use spirits to add dimension and complexity to their dishes.
COVER STORY
PHOTO:
JOANN
ARRUDA
BOMBAY SAPPHIRE® Gin is used to
cure cold-smoked salmon in Seattle
Chef Nathan Cave's dish.
Executive Chef Nathan Crave and Line Cook Matt Broussard
use spirits to add dimension and complexity to dishes.
