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{ real somm stories } 116 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2017 { real somm stories } 116 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2017 MINERALITY AND SOIL MÁD 2015 Furmint, Tokaj, Hungary "This is the most important factor of what makes our wine special," said Tamás Nagy, Head of Marketing and Education for Szent Tamás Winery, as he pointed to an iae of stratified roc and soil. "hat you see here is a sample of drilling of 20 meters into one of our cru ineyards. To o into the icro-details of why, we would need to go back 14 million years to when these soils were fored." uffice it to say, the coposition of the soils in Mád, the Hungarian village that lends its name to the wine we are tasting, also imparts a wallop of stony structure and nuance to this dry urint. The Carpathian Basin is an ancient volcanic region, and millions of years ago hydrothermal activity created the eoloic coposition of the soil as we now it today. "The minerality is getting into the system of the grapes, not in the solution but in suspension, and that is unique," eplains ay. "This is why inerality is truly detected in these wines." Hungary is not a new winegrowing region by any stretch of the iaination. "e had the sinle ineyard classification in 77, alost 20 years before the faous Bordeau classification of ," ay reinded us, but the production of dry urint for the aret is a trend that is relatiely noel and ainin stea. "Furmint as a variety is quite neutral, so it can express very well the uniqueness of this growing area," ay eplained. "o we started picin the fruit that had not been affected by botrytis, and we realized that it was a reat wine." The Szent Tamás Winery blazed the trail for dry urint and is led by Istn zepsy r., an th- eneration wineaer. "The MÁD Furmint is the most important illae-leel dry urint of the Toa reion," clarified ay. "nd urint is rowin its pres - ence in the sommelier community and among consuers. eep an eye peeled for this ariety popping up around the winegrowing regions of the world." MÁD 2015 Furmint, Tokaj, Hungary Tamás Nagy, Head of Marketing and Education for Szent Tamás Winery. 116 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2017