The Somm Journal

22 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2017 { the ransom report } The Ransom Report is a column by The Somm Journal's East Coast Editor David Ransom. In each issue, David will discuss what's currently on his mind and in his glass gathered from conversations and experiences in the world wine, spirits, and hospitality. I'M A BIG FAN of indigenous grapes varieties, e.g. those that originate in, and speak to, the place and the terroir from whence they come. I'm also always fascinated to learn about those grapes when traveling in their "home" region— but does that mean I should have less respect for those modern winemaking regions that built their reputations without a native grape variety to call their own? I recently had the opportunity to spend time in two such regions, Spain's Somontano and Portugal's Alentejo, and was very impressed with what I found. Somontano, nestled in the far north of Aragón along the Vero River, has been a wine-producing region for millennia; however, it stayed pretty much off the radar until the late 1800s when phylloxera hit France's vineyards and local rowers bean supplyin rench rapes north of the border. The first "modern" winery was actually Bodegas Lalanne, which was started in 1890 and is still owned by the French family that emigrated down from Saint-Émilion to "plant roots" here. There are now dozens of producers making very nice wines from mostly French varieties, including Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, among others. Interestingly, there were also some fabulous Gewürztraminer— Gewürztraminer in warm climate Spain, you say? Well, yes. Up north under the snowcapped Pyrenees mountain range, the climate is actually quite well-suited to it. Producers include Batán de Salas, Bestué, Enate, Bodega LAUS, Viñas del Vero Blecua, LaLanne and Sommos. Across the border in the south of Portugal lies the region of Alentejo, a large winemaking area devoted to making wine from whatever grows best (Alicante Bouschet, a French grape, is regarded by some to grow better there than anywhere else). I spent a few days with the producer Esporão (they also own Quinta dos Murças in the Douro Valley) at its 400-year-old estate Herdade do Esporão; it treats its vast vineyard holdings in the region like a wine-production think tank on which grapes grow well, as well as which native and international varieties work well together when blended. More than 40 grape varieties are planted on the estate, and production includes wonderful examples like Esporão's Reserva Red, a blend of Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez (Tempranillo), Cabernet Sauvignon and Trincadeira. o net tie you thin, "h, not another place that rows fill in the blan," give it a try with an open mind. You may be surprised by the quality of what you taste. Iberian Gems, International-Style GETTING TO KNOW A COUPLE OF WINE REGIONS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL WHERE NATIVE GRAPES ARE NOT THE FOCUS Gewürztraminer from Somontano, Spain. Blecua Red Wine from Somontano, Spain. Herdade do Esporão "Esporão" Reserva from Alentejo, Portugal. story and photos by David Ransom

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