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26 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2017 I SPENT A LOVELY DAY in the enter- tainment capital of the world graced by the presence of Vilmart & Cie's Laurent Chaps, the fifth-eneration head of the house who began his career 25 years ago at the young age of 21. The stars of our encounter were the Champagnes of the récoltant-manipulant house located in the heart of the Montagne de Reims in the village of Rilly, which is the home of Pinot Noir in Champagne. Paradoxically, the 11-acre vineyard com - prises 60 percent Chardonnay and 40 per- cent Pinot Noir, as well as vines more than 50 years old. The grapes of the oldest vines are used in Vilmart & Cie's Tête de Cuvée "Cœur de Cuvée" which roughly translates to "the heart of the first pressin"a true epres - sion of the heart, spirit and body of Vilmart. The house's farming practices focus on a respect for the soil through eco- friendly, organic and sustainable viticulture. Generations of winegrowers in the family have proven themselves as stewards of the land: There are no herbicides, insecticides or pesticides used at the vineyard and harvest - ing is done by hand. Champs is quite meticu- lous with the winemaking process, and his belief is, "e ae wine first, bubbles after." All base wines are aged for a minimum of 10 months in cask, which brings focus and precision to Vilmart's Champagnes. When pressing the grapes, a Coquard press very gently and quickly presses the whole clusters into the basket. The wines do not undergo malolactic fermentation and are instead aed on the lees, proidin finesse, freshness and structure. All bottles are hand-riddled with the disgorgement date on the label. The wines of Vilmart are remarkably pol - ished and uncoproisinly well-defined, yet also balanced and interatedbrinin a breath of life to the glass. Vilmart & Cie Champagne Grand Cellier NV Vivacious yet complex with notes of citrus, lemon zest and orchard blos - soms, with a nice, precise creamy texture. Vilmart & Cie Champagne Grand Cellier NV 3L (Jeroboam) More vibrancy and youth, as it ages slower in Jeroboam. Harmonious interlacing of apple, lemon and white peach with a smooth texture and well-defined finish. Vilmart & Cie 2011 Champagne Grand Cellier d'Or efined and clean with aro - matics of dough, almond skin, fresh plum, orange zest and beeswax. Mouthwatering on the palate with purity and focus. Vilmart & Cie 2012 Champagne Grand Cellier d'Or Plush texture showing aromas of mandarin orange and biscuit; toast with a cozy structure. Vilmart & Cie Champagne Cuvée Rubis NV Focused and fresh with biscuit, candied rhubarb, rose petals and cranberry. Vilmart & Cie 2010 Champagne Grand Cellier Rubis Unctuous straw - berry, black raspberry, apricot, red currant, purple owers and red spices with a pol- ished power. Vilmart & Cie 2007 Champagne Cœur de Cuvée A tapestry of vanilla, hazelnut, lemon, clove and dried fruit, yet soft and sleek. Vilmart & Cie 2008 Champagne Cœur de Cuvée Harmony between kum - quat, toasted coconut, fruitcake and lemon erinue with a elety, sooth finish. Vilmart & Cie 2002 Champagne Cœur de Cuvée A caress of silk with lay - ers of creamy coconut, Anjou pears and candied oranges all dancing together with resounding energy. Vilmart & Cie is imported by Skurnik Wines. Family Tradition Laurent Champs, the fifth-genera- tion winemaker for Vilmart & Cie. A VILMART & CIE MASTER CLASS WITH LAURENT CHAMPS by Rachel Macalisang / photos by Michael Boudot { bubbles }