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{ wheying in } EVEN A WEST COAST hophead like me realizes that malty brews have their moment—and that moment is now. About the time the baseball postseason starts, or aybe its when those first asphalt "pupin patches" sprin up, I start crain brown ales, rzens and doppelbocs. nlie bitter Is, which can challene a lot of cheeses, alt-forward beers loe froae. ot eery cheese returns the loeforet tany fresh chèrebut any ehibit the nutty, buttery or brown-suar aroas that alty beers cople - ent. The spicy, spirited holiday ales that breweries release in autun proide een ore cheese-pairin possibilities. They are a surefire choice for cheese plates or platters dressed up with fi cae, apple butter, uince paste or candied walnuts. Tae adantae of the cool weather ahead to eperience soe of these captiatin cheese-and-alty-beer atchups With brown ale This classic nlish style tends to be relatiely low in alcohol B with alt aroas ranin fro toasted rain to cold coffee. air with buttery oint eyes Toa nutty alpine and alpine-style cheeses lie ediu-aed Cot or cae-aed ruyère ild Cheddar lie Beehie Cheese Copany roontory or the carael-scented Central Coast Creaery oat ouda. With bock and doppelbock icher, altier and in the case of doppelboc ore alcoholic than brown ales, these brews can handle ore cheese intensity and a bit of sweetness. ere boc beer with panish arrota or ndante airys Toe olce, both aed oat wheels for doppelboc, rap it up in intensity to an aed sheeps il cheese lie bbaye de Belloc witzerlands e archal or a creay, beefy blue cheese lie Bayley azen. With stout and porter ouble- and triple-crea cheeses are a reat choice for these sooth beers with their aroas of brewed coffee and toast. Try eront Creaery Creont or Cowirl Creaery t. Ta. utty alpine and alpine-style wheels thin Challerhocer or leasant ide esere also shine with these beers, as do ellow ouda-type wheels lie ab Chopper and wephoria. With imperial stout and porter ith ore alcohol, iscosity and ahlua-lie intensity, these brews pair hap- pily with rich, buttery blue cheeses lie Cashel Blue or Bleu duerne with the coffee-coated Beehie Cheese Barely Buzzed no surprise there or with concentrated, powerhouse oudas lie use. With Märzen and Oktoberfestbier These eran and eran-style beers tend to open sweet and finish dry, with toasty aroas and oderate weiht. air with spiced cheeses lie Bellwether ars peppercorn-studded Blacstone cuin-scented eyden or nuets of youn ariiano-eiano. With holiday ales ften robust and richly spiced with aroas of dried fruit, fruitcae and whisey, these celebration ales bloo with stron but not necessarily stiny cheeses lie the eleant oue ier Blue or bold panish alden butterscotch-scented aed ouda the luscious crea-enriched Brillat-aarin or ancys udson alley Caebert. o any brews, so little tie. prin and wheat-beer weather will be here before you now it, so ae sure you et your alt fi now. FALLing in Love AUTUMN CALLS FOR MALT-FORWARD BEER AND NUTTY CHEESE by Janet Fletcher 34 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2017 WIDEONET VIA THINKSTOCK