Evergreen Explorer Magazine

Yangon (once Rangoon) is many travellers' introduction to Myanmar. Concrete and humidity rise, but street markets and Buddha-laden temples linger. Streets are lively with open- fronted restaurants. This blend of history and contemporary buzz sets Myanmar apart: expect ancient palaces and grand golden temples, but also neon-lit shops and modern cafes and restaurants in a country on the cusp of change. Emerging from 50 years of inertia, Myanmar transitions between past and present. Yangon's highlight is Shwedagon Pagoda, a stunning pile of stupas atop a city- centre hill. Myanmar's most important religious sight is draped in 28 tons of gold leaf. An endless perambulation of flip-flopping monks and ladies in silk circle to pray amid an enticing clash of discotheque glitter, gaudy architecture and serene Buddhas. Central Myanmar has two big drawcards. Inle Lake is encircled by mountains and bird-haunted marshland that dissolves into a web of canals. From every vantage-point you see a gleam of gold pagodas. Fishermen's villages hover on stilts, and farmers tend to astonishing market gardens afloat on clumps of reed. Tribal villagers are bright with colour in the markets and on the lake, where they row boats with a foot-operated oar. Mandalay is Myanmar's former royal capital and still its spiritual centre. Temple-dotted hills surround a moated palace complex and lively market streets. Just up-river, Amarapura is a centre for craftspeople such as Buddha makers, wood carvers and the weavers who create the shimmering silk longyis worn so gracefully by Burmese women. Nearby, pedestrians walk between lake and sunset sky across venerable teak U-Bein Bridge. Finding the Centre BURMESE DAYS Smiling people, dazzling temples, urban sights and rural delights. The buzzing energy of this emerging economy makes Myanmar a seductive travel destination. Brian Johnston tells us all about this alluring region. Explorer Magazine | 2

• Cover