CleverRoot

3 0 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t F NICKY FORK WHEN CHEF RICHARD LANDAU started cooking with vegetables in the 1980s, he was a teenage vegetarian at a time when those abstaining from meat had little options. "If I didn't teach myself to cook, I would starve," he remarks. As Landau began to experiment, he realized the carnivorous dishes he used to favor while dining out were not good solely because they featured meat—they were good because of how the chefs prepared the meat. He was de- termined to create the same depth of character in a dish using vegetables as the centerpiece. In 1994, Landau opened his first restaurant, Ho- rizons, in a health food store in Philadelphia. Fellow vegan Kate Jacoby would frequent the spot regularly, and the pair's shared enthusiasm for plant-based diets later led to wedding vows and the establishment of three vegan restaurants: Vedge, a fine dining experi- ence with vegetables in the spotlight; V Street, a street food bar; and Wiz Kid, a fast-casual eatery serving up vegan Philly cheesesteaks. The City of Brotherly Love is a town where passion runs high, from diehard sports fandom all the way to culinary pursuits. "The vegans here are proud and fiery," notes Jacoby. "We are a part of a vibrant and strong com- munity that cares about what they eat and where they get their food." While they cherish that community, the duo was careful not to label themselves exclusively as a vegan restaurant when they opened Vedge in 2011. They did want to create an oasis for plant- based patrons, but they wanted to tempt non-vegans to dip their toes in the world of vegetables without feeling ostracized, as well. The sheer deliciousness of the menu items at Vedge means even the most fervent carnivores want for nothing. Dishes like rutabaga fondue and ssamjang-glazed tofu, meanwhile, highlight the restaurant's focus on season- ality. "You don't need a calendar at Vedge to know what time of year it is," notes Landau. "We use as many local items as we can in a smart way without placing too many limits on it." As for the desserts, Jacoby oversees a seasonal pastry program that main- tains equal importance as the rest of the menu. With options like sticky toffee pudding and PA Dutch apple cheesecake, enticing diners to stick around and appreciate every last bite of vegan goodness isn't exactly a challenge. On the Cutting Vedge CHEFS RICH LANDAU AND KATE JACOBY BRING VEGETABLES TO THE FOREFRONT IN PHILADELPHIA by Emily Coleman PHOTOS COURTESY OF VEDGE RESTAURANT GROUP Vedge, a vegetable-focused restaurant in Philadelphia, puts produce in the spotlight with wood-roasted carrot, pumpernickel, garbanzo beans, carrot mustard, and carrot kraut. In addition to Vedge, Chefs Richard Landau and Kate Jacoby own two more Philadelphia vegan restaurants: V Street, a street food bar, and Wiz Kid (pictured above), a fast-casual eatery serving up vegan Philly cheesesteaks. ■cr

• Cover