other side of Belgrave Square; and you're only a five-
minute walk from Harrods—it feels only privileged, not
exclusive.
For while there is a dining room upstairs, this is first
and foremost a place to enjoy the classic London beer,
Fuller's of Chiswick, in an optimal environment. The
menu is nothing like as adventurous as those that follow
elsewhere, showing an unbroken lineage to the old days
of "pub grub": fish and chips, burgers, pies, sausages and
mash. But the pricing is correspondingly understated
and there are concessions to modern tastes, too, such
as a nicely balanced roasted beetroot and squash
salad (£11.50). And, as there is no better barometer of
