Sure enough, from the moment you have dipped a slice
of sourdough into beef dripping, or smeared it with
homemade butter, you know you are in good hands.
Never mind once transported by knock-out smoked
pork belly with celeriac remoulade and pear ketchup
(£8). It is billed as country cooking, but over the years
the yeoman farmer has seldom subsisted Cornish
octopus and pork chorizo (£8.50) followed by braised
ox cheek and grilled aubergine (£16.50).
Maybe it's not quite the ticket if you are on a diet.
But if you believe that the quality of ingredients
counts as much as what you do with them, then this
place represents a gown and mortarboard in Britain's
culinary graduation.
