Issue link: http://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/742011
S P O R T I N G C L A S S I C S • 17 CHRISTMAS EvE OYSTER STEW We greeted Papaw with whoops of glee as he stomped off the cold and strode into the kitchen, a gleaming gallon tin clasped under one brawny arm. Once a year, at Christmastime, he would splurge on a treat that surely cost him dearly: a gallon of oysters steam-freighted up the Mississippi. And only twice a year did he commandeer Miss Grace's stove; once, to make Christmas Eve Oyster Stew, and the other, a post- Christmas turkey hash breakfast. I doubt if he ever wrote the recipe for either down, but hopefully he'd approve of my take on his oyster stew. This 'N That (continued) "It was her late husband's most prized possession and she wouldn't part with it, so I bought the old lady, too." by john troy – courtesy skyhorse Publishing Serves 4 to 6 1/3 cup unsalted butter 1/3 cup minced green onions (I use young 1015s, planted earlier in the month) 1/3 cup minced celery 2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon, plus more for serving 2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley 1/3 cup organic all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon sea salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne 2 cups whole milk 2 cups half-and-half 1 cup oyster liquor 48 oysters Tabasco sauce In a 5-quart stockpot over medium-high heat, melt the butter, then add the green onions, celery, tarragon, and parsley. Sauté for 3 to 5 minutes until the vegetables are translucent and the herbs are fragrant. Slowly sprinkle in the flour, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Add the salt, pepper, and cayenne. Exchange the wooden spoon for a wire whisk and slowly whisk in the milk, half-and-half, and oyster liquor. Lower the heat to medium so that the pot barely simmers but does not boil. Slip in the oysters six or so at a time; you want to keep the liquid hot. Stir gently for several minutes, and when the oysters develop "frilly" edges, ladle into soup bowls and top with a sprinkle of tarragon. Serve with Tabasco sauce and Firecracker Oyster Crackers. n From thE fiElD tO tABlE COOkBOOk by susan l. ebert