CleverRoot

s u m m e r 2 0 1 7 | 7 cooking style is very Sonoma-centric as far as fresh ingredients. It's influenced by the Italian history that she has within her family, but also what we have as a community. And it's just damn good." Johnson smiles and adds, "She's my wife's favorite chef by far." Although Chef Gia apprenticed with the acclaimed Simili sisters in Bologna, she admits her culinary training has been quite informal. "I just cooked and cooked and practiced. I just loved it," she says. Chef Gia also spent time in Florence, where the traditions and bountiful markets played an integral role in her approach to cooking. That approach is all about simplic- ity, a celebration of fresh, seasonally appropri- ate ingredients; heightening their flavors with simple techniques—caramelization from the grill, sea salt, excellent olive oil and acidity. "I realized really where my roots were from. You could see the markets, the food, the tradition. It all made sense to me." The final meal is deceivingly simple: a sliced leg of lamb sandwich with caramelized onion purée, sautéed agretti, manchego cheese and salsa verde; mixed greens with radishes and carrots; grilled leeks and baby zucchini with basil pesto and warm bread from a baker in San Anselmo. Lunch is served with the Frei Broth- ers Sonoma Reserve Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley. While the historic, 125-year-old Frei Broth- ers ranch is planted primarily to Zinfandel and Merlot, Johnson works with growers in AVAs throughout Sonoma County to source the best quality fruit for each of the Frei Brothers' six varietal wines. Many of their growers are mul- tigenerational Sonoma natives whose contracts go back 40 to 50 years. Each of the wines serves as a profile for that region's expres- sion, highlighting the diversity that makes up Sonoma County. "We want access to many dif- ferent spots that help make up a well-rounded wine," says Johnson. "That's how we do it, by sourcing from different partners in areas where we don't have grapes." Johnson's winegrowing philosophy parallels Chef Gia's approach to cooking. Per Johnson, the style for Frei Brothers Reserve wines is, "Fruit-forward, ripe and rich so we can express all the characteristics of the grape." He adds, "Also, minimal winemaking impact. I want oak to be the second or third character you taste, not the first." While wine tourism has boomed, the food and wine traditions of Sonoma County remain true to its heritage. Chefs and grow- ers embrace these hyper-local relationships, cultivated over decades in the community. I asked Chef Gia how she chooses the vendors she works with today. She tells me, "You learn by living in the area what's happening in terms of food. And you visit the source, you visit the site." Sustainability at Frei Brothers Along the edge of the vineyard of Frei Ranch, native oaks and chaparral line the property. Johnson tells me they spend a considerable amount of time focusing on the native plants that border the vineyard. "The happier and healthier we have this side of the ranch, the better the vines." Why? He explains that insects look to the vines as an easy meal, but if they nurture the native vegetation, "It allows us to use less inputs since they have another food source." The year-round cover crop is also crucial to the health of the vines and groundwater sup- ply. By only tilling every four-to-six years, they prevent erosion and dust and water runoff. The local tributaries all run to the Russian River, which was a crucial habitat for Coho salmon and Steelhead trout, whose populations have declined due to environmental pressures. It also supports a healthy root system as the my- corrhizae populations allow the vines to uptake nutrients more effectively. With 16 unique wine-growing regions and a rich farming heritage, it's no wonder that Sonoma County continues to attract a talented community of artisans, chefs and winemakers equipped with a vibrant palette of raw ingre- dients. That's why we love Sonoma County, for helping to shape what we think of today as California cuisine. Frei Brothers 2015 Pinot Noir accom- panies a sliced leg of lamb sandwich with caramelized onion purée, sautéed agretti, manchego cheese and salsa verde. The rolling hillsides of Frei Ranch face west, overlooking the Dry Creek Valley. ■cr

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