7 0 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t
DECONSTRUCTING DISHES
THE RÍ RÁ IRISH PUB chain, which calls itself "The Irish Local," has
brought the lilting, Irish tenor of Gaelic cooking to nine locations
stretching from Portland, Maine, to Las Vegas, Nevada, with stops in
between in Charlotte, North Carolina; Evansville, Indiana; and Atlanta,
Georgia. It brings a cuisine stateside that, quite frankly, has a sketchy
reputation—those who have traveled to the Emerald Isle remember, per-
haps more than anything else, the greasiness of the Irish breakfast—and
the need to drink a lot of Guinness to wash away the memory.
Rí Rá Irish Pub's Irish
breakfast retains many
of the familiar ingre-
dients that make it a
classic Gaelic dish, but
with an American twist.
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INVASION
CHEF KEVIN SOUCY
TAILORS IRISH
FOOD TO THE
AMERICAN PALATE
by Merrill Shindler