CleverRoot

s u m m e r 2 0 1 8 | 9 Côtes du Rhône Grape Fundamentals Rouge/red must contain a mini- mum of 40% Grenache (excepting the vineyards north of Montélimar) and at least 15% of Mourvèdre and Syrah combined. This combination must make up at least 70% of the blend. The same goes for Côtes du Rhône rosé, except rosé can contain up to 20% combined white varieties while rouge can only contain up to 5% white combined varieties. Grenache is the most commonly grown grape in the Rhône Valley, particularly in the south, where two-thirds of the Rhône's total wines are produced. Grenache makes up the majority of Côtes du Rhône red blends. Mourvèdre and Syrah are the main supporting actors in the reds of Côtes du Rhône. Mourvèdre adds structure and acid where Syrah con- tributes a bold spice. Blanc/white must contain a mini- mum of 80% Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette, and Viognier combined. Marsanne is arguably the most important white grape in the Rhône Valley and is widely used in Côtes du Rhône white blends. Bourboulenc, a floral grape, is com- monly used in the Côtes du Rhône white blends to add acidity. The aromatic Roussanne grape, difficult to grow, adds finesse and grace to the white blends of the Côtes du Rhône. Perhaps the most expressive white grape, at least in terms of perfume, Viognier finds its way into some of the best Côtes du Rhône blends, contributing full-bodied texture and often violet aromas. in personality that they each required thoughtfulness to create a balanced pairing. The team settled on a crispy duck salad to play opposite the Côtes du Rhône Les Dauphins Réserve 2015. Made with shredded, wok-fried duck with its fat retained, the dish also included pomegranate seeds that pulled out the red fruit aspects of the wine; pomelo, meanwhile, gave the wine a pleasant citrus lift. Grandison says that Hakkasan's next dish, seared beef with edamame and basil, "worked beautifully with the most substantial wine in the lineup": the Côtes du Rhône Villages Laundun Chusclan Vignerons Les Dolia 2015. "Somewhere between the ginger, the basil leaf, and scallions, the riper, more brambly side of this wine perfectly balanced out with the structure of the dish," he adds. "That was a big surprise for our team. On paper, everyone thought black-pepper beef would be the best pairing." The common thread throughout both venues' pairings is one of compatibility and balance that also serves as a nod to tradition. The Côtes du Rhône and the masterful Pan-Asian cuisine of Wild Ginger and Hakkasan are both deeply rooted in their disparate histories and cultures: Despite evolution on separate continents, they find a place of grace and harmony at the table. At Hakkasan, seared beef with edamame and basil matches with the Côtes du Rhône Villages Laundun Chusclan Vignerons Les Dolia 2015. ■cr

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