Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1037369
100 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018 { younger vintage } WHEN NIKI WENTE refers to herself as "a Chardonnay enthusiast," one can't help but smile at her understated self-assessment and self-effacing charm. A fth-generation winegrower and viticulturalist at California's oldest continu - ously operated family-owned winery, Wente Vineyards, Niki exudes contagious passion and commendable expertise regarding the rich history and diverse expressions of America's favorite grape. Luckily for attendees of the Society of Wine Educators annual conference, held in August in New York's Finger Lakes region, she generously agreed to share her experi - ence and insights during a seminar entitled "Decision- Making in Chardonnay Winemaking." "I know there are a lot of folks out there who are members of the anything- but-Chardonnay crew," she began. "Others dismiss the oaky versions and think it is the only style of Chardonnay in the world. I'm here to dispel all that and showcase the incredible versatility of this variety." Wente and Chardonnay share a history that's deeply intertwined. Niki's great-great grandfather, C.H. Wente, planted the family estate's rst vineyard in Livermore in 1883; her great-grandfather Ernest, meanwhile, planted the family's rst Chardonnay vineyard in 1912 while still a student at the University of California, Davis, importing Chardonnay cuttings to California from France in order to explore the variety's potential in the soil of his native state. "We nally had this great Chardonnay vineyard, and then Prohibition struck," Niki said with a laugh. Through a combination of resourcefulness, tenacity, and sacramental wine production, the Wente Chardonnay vineyards endured. When Prohibition ended, neighboring winegrowers procured Wente budwood to repropagate their own vineyards, and today more than 80 percent of all California Chardonnay stems from the Wente Clone. "It could be said that the Wente story is the California Chardonnay story," Niki said. Niki practically grew up in her family vineyards, often walk - ing the vine rows with her father, Phil Wente, as he inspected Niki Wente, fifth-generation winegrower and viticulturalist for Wente Family Estates, leads a seminar at the Society of Wine Educators annual conference in August. Writing the "California Chardonnay Story" EXPLORING WENTE VINEYARDS' EMBRACE OF THE CLASSIC GRAPE AT THE SOCIETY OF WINE EDUCATORS ANNUAL CONFERENCE by Cliff Rames / photos by Paul Hoy