Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1051430
8 2 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t D'Chez Eux At this charming Burgundian bistro behind Les Invalides, the waiters wear blue aprons and drive chariots: in this case, carts laden with a selection of goodies to choose from. In the old days, when the place was owned by a dapper gentleman named M. Court, one cart was filled with salad options while another overflowed with cochonailles, a massive selection of sausages, rillettes, hams, and everything else imaginable that can be made from pork. When M. Court retired, the new owners decided to cut back on the cart offerings, so instead of the effusion of choices previously offered, the selection is now rather minimal. Other dishes are hearty renditions of rustic country food, with the garlicky frogs' legs and roasted chicken making particularly good impressions. 2 Avenue de Lowendal, 7th Arrondissement, +33 1 47 05 52 55, www. chezeux.com Allard When my wife and I were in Paris for our honeymoon many, many years ago, this Saint-Germain bistro had two Michelin stars. Marcel Allard and his wife, Marthe—the power behind the stove—were famous for their roasted duck hidden under a mountain of green olives. The coq au vin was also exemplary. Yet, time passes. M. Allard is no longer with us, and the days of a rustic bistro earning two stars are over. The place was taken over by an M. Leyrat, who ran it for a number of years; recently, however, it's been ab- sorbed into the Alain Ducasse juggernaut, which seems intent upon ruling the world (or at least ingesting every restaurant in Paris). This was my first visit to Allard since my birthday dinner there in 2006. I'm sorry to report that the entire experience has been truncated, com- pressed, streamlined, and eviscerated. The famous duck, bland and sport- ing a mere sprinkling of olives, is a shadow of its former self. The coq au vin, meanwhile, was missing in action. Other dishes were competently prepared but lacking in conviction or passion, but most disturbing (and most telling) was the fact that not a word of French was being spoken in the full dining room. Better luck next trip, perhaps. 41 Rue Saint-André des Arts, 6th Arrondissement, +01 58 00 23 42, restaurant-allard.fr PHOTO COURTESY OF D'CHEZ EUX The chariots at D'Chez Eux arrive loaded with various selections.