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Clever Root Fall-2018

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f a l l 2 0 1 8 | 8 3 À la Biche au Bois The best-priced place on the list, À la Biche au Bois admittedly is somewhat of a trek across town. It's a small, pleasant res- taurant with a homey feel and a menu of fairly standard dishes, but it's best known for its coq au vin, which is brought out of the kitchen in a large steaming pot. Maybe it's just me, but it seemed like the sauce and the chicken, which was a little tough, were cooked in separate pots. Everyone else in my party, however, vocalized how much they enjoyed it. People seem to love this place, and overall, the food is pretty good: The pro- prietress, who directs the service, works hard and mostly succeeds. 45 Avenue Ledru-Rollin, 12th Arrondissement, +01 43 43 34 38 PHOTO COURTESY OF AU PETIT TONNEAU Au Petit Tonneau serves a delectable blanquette de veau. Au Petit Tonneau This cozy and friendly Left Bank establishment makes you feel like you're dining comfortably in the home of your French rela- tives. The patron and his wife are always on hand to serve dishes, open wine, and offer advice. There's the usual bistro fare— steaks, chops, et cetera—and the prices are quite moderate (12 escargots here are 18€; at L'Ami Louis, they're 48€). I was drawn to the blanquette de veau, a dish my mother used to make that cov- ers chunks of veal breast in a rich velouté cream sauce. Yum! The wine list here is also quite good: something of which the patron is very proud. Make sure to check out the lemon meringue tart for dessert. 20 Rue Surcouf, 7th Arrondissement, +01 47 05 09 01, aupetittonneau.fr "I wa draw t th blanque d vea, dis my mothe use• t mak tha• cover chunk of vea• breas• i ric velout crea- sauc. Yu-!" ■cr

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