Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1061132
{ SOMMjournal.com } 75 What is BioIntegrale? The Casadei family's BioIntegrale approach is an ethical protocol that extends beyond organic and Biodynamic farming. Although the vineyards managed by the Casadeis are all certified organic, they felt that they could go further by focusing not just on the materials applied to the vineyards, but the mechanisms used and their overall impact on nature, as well. Stefano says the intention is to cultivate a harmonious relationship with the land that ensures a healthy, sustainable environment while re- specting the wineries' natural surroundings. In addition to traditional organic and Biodynamic principles, BioIntegrale also addresses additional environmental considerations, including the use of horses versus tractors to avoid soil compaction, the implementation of renewable energy sources like solar, and the ecological man- agement of waste through composting and percolation basins. According to Casadei's longtime friend, Artemio Olianas, his native island of Sardinia is "the place where BioIntegrale was born." While Olianas' family moved to Tuscany when he was 8, he never forgot his beloved home. So when the restau- rateur, who owns trattorias throughout Florence, inherited land near the town of Gergei, he set out to plant a vineyard where he could produce Sardinian wines for his restaurants. He lacked the viticultural experience to properly manage the estate, however, so in 2002 Olianas contacted Stefano for advice. One look at these rocky, rolling hills and Stefano was smitten, so they par tnered to construct a winery and vineyard from the ground up. "As you can see, this land is really unspoiled," Venturi says. "The wine has been organic since the beginning, because it was the most natural choice. We have the perfect soil, a perfect microclimate, and a constant breeze that keeps the humidity and fun - gus away. But then Stefano realized that just being organic was not enough. We were basically the only tractors spoiling the silence of this place." To reduce their impact, the pair transi - tioned from tractors to horses and intro- duced geese to maintain the weeds under the vines. Composts and cover crops are integrated to add vitality to the soil, and pest control is carried out solely by or - ganic products. The use of sulfur is limited in the winery and all wines are fermented naturally without inoculations. The property is located just 40 miles north of Cagliari on a hill surrounded by expansive, pristine views that yield more sheep than people. Among the indigenous varieties grown here are Vermentino, Semidano, Cannonau, Bovale (Mourvè - dre), and Carignano (Carignane). In some ways, the terroir is reminiscent of parts of California, with calcareous, sandy soils and large diurnal temperature shifts that regenerate acidity, making for fresh, vibrant wines. As cleverly strategized, the Casadei portfolio has reaped all the benefits. Designed by Stefano Casadei to replace tractors, this device is pulled by horses, supplemented with a solar-powered engine, and built to attach to a variety of tools. "It's a very technological machine pulled by a horse," jokes Casadei, who notes that the project was developed in conjunction with the European Union. Near the Olianas estate lies one of the most well-preserved megalithic strongholds in Sardinia, Nuraghe of Barumini (circa 1478 B.C.). Roughly 7,000 of these ancient fortresses have been found throughout the island. Cannonau seeds have been found in multiple Nuraghe sites dating back 3,200 years, proof that Garnacha (Cannonau) was not imported by the Spanish during their colonization of Sardinia 500 years ago. In fact, the island may have been the genetic cradle of the variety. Tasng Notes Castello del Trebbio 2013 Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG Lastricato Made from 100% Sangiovese, this sin- gle-vineyard wine expresses aromas of tobacco, black figs, dried cherries, and molasses. The texture has a juicy cherry core laced with spicy black peppercorn. In comparison, the 2004 Lastricato holds up beautifully with aromas of dried figs, baked rhubarb, and pine resin. The palate is savory with flavors of bone broth mingled with rosehips, medium tannins, and firm acidity. Castello del Trebbio 2016 Chianti Superiore DOCG Predominantly Sangiovese with small amounts of in- digenous varieties (15% Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo). While their addition was once traditional, these native grapes are becoming less and less common as wineries turn to Merlot and Cab- ernet Sauvignon. Brambly red fruit, eucalyptus, and pomegranate burst from the glass and are echoed on the palate by subtle hints of graphite and tea-like tannins. Casadei 2015 Cabernet Franc Filare 18 Alluring aromas of black plums, forest floor, and black pepper- corn mingle with notes of leather and baking spice. The palate is deep and savory with firm tannins, a core of black fruit, and a long, insistent finish.