in the U.S., says its U.S. sales representative Ian
Griffith. "We've had at least 20 percent growth over
the last three to four years," says Griffith, a notable
feat given that the company has not expanded
its line beyond its original product, a fresh cubed
cheese made with blended goat's and sheep's milk
and marinated with black peppercorns, fresh garlic,
and thyme.
Even Griffith doesn't know the ratio of goat's
to sheep's milk, but the former predominates.
The sheep's milk adds buttery richness to this
delightfully soft and creamy cheese, yet the overall
impression is light and lemony.
Surprisingly, given its enormous success,
Meredith Dairy Sheep & Goat Cheese remains a
farmstead product. Owners Sandy and Julie Cameron,
who transitioned from ranching to dairying 30 years
ago when wool prices cratered, now have the largest
sheep and goat dairy farm in Australia, producing
primarily fresh cheese and yogurt.
"We make cheese within 12 hours of milking,"
says Griffith. "That's one of our claims to fame.
Super-fresh milk gives you that really clean taste."
All three of these producers use a blend of
olive oil and canola oil to prevent the product from
congealing in the fridge; olive oil alone would
solidify. Consumers accustomed to draining the oil
from tinned tuna or marinated artichokes may not
realize that the marinated-cheese oil can enhance
salads and cooked dishes and is useful for at least a
week after the cheese is consumed.
"The big barrier is education," says Coggins.
"People are still learning about this type of
cheese. There's only about 10 percent household
penetration for goat cheese, and this is a specialized
subset of goat cheese."
Retailers can help build the category by
offering usage suggestions, producers say. Drizzle
the oil over hot pasta or bruschetta, or dip crusty
bread in it. Add lemon juice or wine vinegar to the
oil to make a salad dressing or use the flavorful oil
to dress steamed chard or spinach. Whisk the oil
into store-bought mayonnaise to make an artichoke
dip. Use the cheese in place of feta in a Greek
salad; dollop it on pizza or in a frittata; or warm
in a ramekin and serve with crostini and radishes.
In Australia, marinated fresh cheese is popular
on avocado toast, either on top of the smashed
avocado or underneath.
"We certainly do better in stores that have a
designated cheese department and someone who
can talk about our cheese," says Griffith. "Usage
suggestions are huge."
Producers predict this niche will blossom as
consumers get comfortable with the novelty and
appreciate the extended lifespan of marinated cheeses.
There is probably room for a cow's milk version
and more flavor innovation. "The category will
grow," predicts Tuck, "in lockstep with consumers'
understanding of how to use the product."
28 SPECIALTY FOOD SPECIALTYFOOD.COM
CHEESE FOCUS
Janet Fletcher writes the email newsletter Planet Cheese
and is the author of Cheese & Wine and Cheese & Beer.
