Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/882780
ELEVATION AND EVOLUTION Lamole di Lamole 2012 Vigneto Campolungo Gran Selezione, Chianti Classico, Italy "Lamole di Lamole—a wine so nice you say it twice!" cut in Kristina Sazama, Marketing anaer for anta arherita . he effectiely transitioned us into our first red wine of the tasting, and while this wine is indeed very nice, it is also packs a serious punch of structure and fruit. "The history of Sangiovese is one of trying to soften tannins," explained Sazama, and it is a combination of terroir, tradition and technology that allows the Lamole di aole to stay a step ahead of its tannins and find balance between fruit and for. estled in the heart of ree in Chianti Classico, aole di aole has the benefit of uniue elevation: Their vineyards sit at an average of 350–550 meters (or roughly 1,150–1,800 feet) above sea level, which, for Chianti Classico, is very high. "In fact, within the Lamole vineyards there is a site that is 700 meters (2,300 feet) above sea level, which is the absolute highest you can legally plant within the region and still call it Chianti Classico," explained Sazama. "With this elevation, we have a longer growing season than that of the valleys, resulting in a slower evolution during ripening and the opportunity to capture some of those more delicate aromatics. Bud break to harvest is 210 days; in the valley, it is about 180 days." To touch on tradition, Sazama showed us an image of the meticulously-terraced vineyards of Lamole di Lamole. While terraced vineyards fell out of fashion in the 1980s in Chianti Classico (with many larger producers mov - ing toward mechanization in the vineyards), Lamole di Lamole went the other direction, retaining and rebuilding the ancient terraces to help prevent erosion and retain heat. But Lamole di Lamole is not averse to technology, with an optical sort - ing machinery to measure for color, skin density and health of fruit and a uniue deferred etraction ethod for anain tannins. "oeties, Sangiovese can have rather dusty and astringent tannins, which, along with high acidity, can come across a little austere," explained Sazama. "Through the deferred extraction method, the cap is separated from the juice/must, and the must is allowed to start fermentation as a white wine. The cap is held at 15 degrees Celsius (59 degrees Fahrenheit) in its own tank, allowing for the formation of longer-chain tannins; at the same time you have the must that is starting to ferment. "Once the must gets to about 6 percent alcohol, the cap is reintroduced. Extracting longer-chain tannins in this alcoholic solution is much more gentle than a mechanical (i.e. pumping over) extraction. "In doing this, we retain the elegance of the fruit and the structure of the wine, but without the harshness of tannins that Sangiovese can be known for," Sazama noted. Lamole di Lamole 2012 Vigneto Campolungo Gran Selezione, Chianti Classico, Italy. Kristina Sazama, Marketing Manager for Santa Margherita USA. { SOMMjournal.com } 117