Issue link: http://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/724773
2 8 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t THE OLD SAYING GOES, "You can't really understand another person's experience until you've walked a mile in their shoes." And as someone who has ordered side dishes plenty of times when meatless main course options were not available, I can always tell whether a chef has some experience with what it's like to eat meals that don't feature an animal. Those who really understand the vegetarian lifestyle put a con- siderable amount of thought into their plant-based fare; they don't just throw vegetables on a plate and call it a meal. Falling into this much-appreciated category, Chef John Fraser transitioned to a vegetable- based diet in 2011 and recently opened Nix, a seasonal vegetarian restaurant in New York's Greenwich Village, with partner James Truman. With sharable dishes like the shiitake "cacio e pepe" with salsify and heirloom polenta, or Persian cucumbers, jerk spices, goat cheese and clementines, even carnivores may not miss the meat. Explaining his decision to put vegetables in the driver seat, Chef Fraser recalls, "As a kid from California, simple and healthy was always part of the conversation around the dinner table. I've grown as a creative since then, and I crave ways of feeding people that not only satisfies the taste buds but also nourishes a lifestyle— vegetables became a natural progression. It really does feel like uncharted territory, and I'm excited to see what chefs come up with, creatively, in vegetarian cuisine." Chef Fraser wants to shed the idea that a vegetarian diet must be restrictive and strives to celebrate this food group to the fullest. He does so by changing his menu with the season—currently, he is working with blistered tomatoes with thyme and charred avocado—and using innovative techniques, such as high-heat cooking in tandoor ovens, to serve up dishes that will make guests' palates excited by vegetables again (or for the first time). He also believes that "there are so many more ways to be involved in the process, beyond what is just presented on the plate," which is why he enjoys participating in the larger food conversation and veg- etarian movement. This sentiment of building something beyond the plate is why he works to create an integrated experience for the diner by ensuring that everything—from the seasonal fresh cocktails to the desserts, and even the lighting—works together. All of his hard work and his devotion to vegetables have paid off in the repeat customers, both of the vegephile and carnivore variety, that he sees time and time again at Nix, proving that meat doesn't get to have all of the fun. F NICKY FORK Cauliflower tempura with steamed buns and house pickles. At Nix in Greenwich Village, Chef John Fraser celebrates all of your favorite vegetables. Lessons in Satisfaction CHEF JOHN FRASER OF NIX IN GREENWICH VILLAGE PROVES A VEGETARIAN DIET DOESN'T HAVE TO BE ABOUT SACRIFICE by Emily Coleman / photos by Stephen Johnson Tandoor bread with an array of dips. p p ■cr