Issue link: http://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/724773
5 0 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t PHOTO: LISA MONAHAN PHOTO: LISA MONAHAN PHOTO: LISA MONAHAN PHOTO: LISA MONAHAN ■cr At cult foodie fave Zingerman's Delicatessen in Ann Arbor, MI, William Marshall turns to Prosciutto di Parma for a variety of applications, ranging from sandwiches and salads, to the classic charcuterie spread and combination of prosciutto-wrapped cantaloupe. For Executive Chef Ryan Hardy, the process of salt-curing defined his early cu- linary life. Before opening Charlie Bird NYC, Hardy owned a farm, where he raised and butchered pigs. "Country ham is a big deal in Kentucky, and yet there was a point in my career when I tried to get away from that culture, my culture." A deep plunge into the peasant cuisines of Italy and Latin America instilled in him a sense of appreciation for the history of whis newest restaurant, Pasquale Jones. Hardy explains, "All of these cultures have cured pork in common." At Charlie Bird NYC and Pasquale Jones, Prosciutto di Parma is a staple. Hardy compares paper-thin, translucent slices to fine linen in texture and drape. "The consistency is second to none," he says. "Prosciutto di Parma is sweet, silky and delicate." As Hardy and Marshall extol the virtues of bone-in ham, the words they use border on reverent, the way a wine aficionado might explain Burgundy from a Grand Cru as opposed to a Premier Cru vineyard. "The bone changes the texture dramati- cally. The meat will be sweeter and more complex, in the same way that a steak cooked on the bone will taste beefier and contain more minerality." Subtle flavors, Hardy says, "make a big difference." "We certainly go through it at Charlie Bird," he continues. "We serve a lot of pro- sciutto crudo, hand-sliced Prosciutto di Parma with pickled vegetables. One of my favorite dishes is a spinach and ricotta tortilla: we fry Prosciutto di Parma with butter and sage, or we emulsify leftover skins together with parmigiana. It makes for a beau- tiful summer pasta." Because the skin, fat and bone can all be used in the kitchen, Prosciutto di Parma gives chefs like Hardy limitless possibilities for creativity.