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s p r i n g 2 0 1 7 | 5 9 the Szent Tamás 2013 Szamorodni. An off-dry blend of Furmint, Hárslevelu˝ and Sárgamuskotály, it's not as dense as Aszú, but the complexity is there; dried apricot, Dalmatia orange fig spread, cardamom and smoke. Creaminess on the palate is nicely balanced by an electric cord of acidity and pronounced minerality. Here, the yin-yang of sweetness and acidity are echoed in both the dessert and the wine. As captivated as I am by the dishes and their con- struction, I'm equally impressed by the fact that all the wines chosen for these meals are white. Dry Furmint in all its complexity and mineral-driven splendor is an incredibly versatile wine: "When I came here in 2010," muses Horváth, "I was a real outsider, but I had some colleagues here, and they helped me with the pairings. Over time, you develop an intuitive feeling about the wines, their structure and their minerality. We try to demolish the boundaries of conventional pairings. For us, Mád is a playground." On this playground, the Gusteau Culinary Experience Workshop was selected by Gault & Millau as Restaurant of the Year in Hungary in 2016, and Mád Furmint was awarded Gold Medal at the New York World Wine & Spir- its Competition. Chef Horváth's dishes are a colorful procession with vivid ingredients woven as intricate as a Persian rug, paired expertly with the local selec- tions of dry Furmint wines. ■cr

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