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S P O R T I N G C L A S S I C S 1 3 8 e c i p e s R Jim Casada trout (those in the seven- to ten-inch range) are best, and the ultimate treat comes when they are caught, cleaned, and cooked within a period of less than an hour. However, trout keep reasonably well in a wicker creel or a traditional "arctic" pouch (one you dip in the stream periodically and let evaporation help cool the fish), and even if they're refrigerated and then prepared within a day or two of being caught, they will do just fine. Clean the fish. Small trout need nothing more than making a small cut to remove the anal vent; run a knife to just below the gills, cut the gills loose where they join the head (leave the head intact), pull the gills toward the tail to remove the entrails, and run a thumbnail down the bloodline inside the body cavity along the spine to remove it. Wash thoroughly to remove any residue from cleaning, then pat slightly with paper towels. Leave enough moisture for the stone-ground cornmeal that serves as a covering or batter to cling to the fish. Coat the fish in cornmeal, making sure the body cavity as well as the outside is covered. Pan fry in a large skillet. Bacon fat or lard is best. Do not use olive oil, which has a low smoke point and somehow seems to soak into the fish, lending its distinct flavor that does not work well with trout. The grease needs to be piping hot (almost smoking) when you add the fish. The hot oil seals the cornmeal breading and allows the flesh to cook without soaking up the grease. Fry, turning only once, until golden brown. Pat away any excess N utritious, available in great variety, tasty, and perfect for a cook's imagination and ingenuity, fish on the dinner table can bring as much joy as the sport involved in catching them. From chowders and soups to old- fashioned fish fries, from salads and stews to dips, along with countless other offerings, freshwater fish, shellfish, and seafood merit inclusion on a regular basis in every sportsman's diet. Here are a few recipes, all as simple as they are scrumptious. Lowcountry Shellfish Boil In South Carolina, where this catch-all recipe was supposedly developed (I'm sure you could find dissenting voices regarding its origins in Cajun country), the basic dish is described with an interesting array of names—Frogmore Stew, Beaufort Stew, Lowcountry Boil, and more. It isn't a stew and doesn't contain frog legs—Frogmore is actually a small community in Beaufort County, South Carolina— but it is delicious and an ideal dish to feed the multitudes with minimal preparation. 3 pounds smoked venison, beef sausage, or polska kielbasa, cut into 1-inch chunks 1 package seafood boil seasoning or substitute a cup of Old Bay 6 ears corn, shucked, silked, and cut into 2-inch chunks 8 medium-size red potatoes, cubed 6 to 8 blue crabs (optional), top shells removed and cleaned 4 pounds whole shrimp Fill a large pot with 2½ gallons of water and bring to a rolling boil. Add the sausage and seasoning, and boil for ten minutes. Add the corn and potatoes, and boil for another ten minutes. If you desire, add the crabs. As soon as the water begins to boil again, add the shrimp and cook them until they turn pink. Do not overcook the shrimp—when they are pink, they are done and so is the entire preparation. Drain, then serve on a large platter or atop clean paper on an outside picnic table. Condiments should include melted butter for the corn and potatoes, salt and pepper, and seafood sauce for dipping. Serves eight. Pan-Fried Trout The countless backwoods feasts featuring freshly-caught wild trout rank right at the top of my all-time favorite backwoods meals. Small Tasty recipes for shellfish, trout, tuna, panfish, catfish.