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f a l l 2 0 1 6 | 3 3 With such a vast amount of information and number of choices, how then is oak utilized in our winemaking today? After many probing and curiosity-filled discussions with our amazing and insightful winemakers and winemaking friends, I would suggest there are three main goals and three leading effects of the use of oak in winemaking and aging. The goals: seamlessness, subtle integration and balance. The effects: a micro-introduction of oxygen, the fixing of compounds and the introduction of aromatics and flavor. In the interest of brevity, lets keep the science and chemistry to a minimum, as it is complex and variable and the results can be difficult to define precisely. In fact, this variability incites us to launch barrel tests with every vin- tage—our path to finding just the right permutations relative to our vineyards and the varieties involved. This is also why we enjoy tasting our wines and forging relationships with a handful of knowledgeable, experienced, artisanal coopers. If the cooper fully understands our vineyards, our vision and our wines, then he or she could be in a position to construct barrels that advance our vision and our winemak- ers' interpretations. What Barrels Bring to the Glass OXYGEN. Barrels are porous storage vessels that allow for a controlled micro-introduction of oxygen into the barrel and wine. This exchange helps transform raw, recently fermented wine and its underlying compounds from simple to complex (i.e., tannins polymerizing, which softens the wines) while at the same time initiat- ing the aging process and setting the stage for longer-term aging. FIXING COMPOUNDS. Oak barrels and fermented grape juice contain a dizzying array of compounds. When these compounds are comingled for the first time, they bind together to help fix and stabilize the color in wine. Ad- ditional compounds are created and intro- duced through the toasting process, which further assists in fixing and stabilizing color. The science around the interactions between these compounds fills volumes, and enological universities around the world devote many classroom hours to the topic. Enough said; chemistry lesson over. On to the more evident aspects of barrel aging; FLAVOR AND AROMA. Primary fruit flavors in wine are derived from fermen- tation. Subtle layers of secondary aromas and flavors are derived from barrel aging. Think of it this way: Barrels are to winemakers as spices are to chefs. It is the cre- ative and extraordinary chef who thoughtfully introduc- es spices into a dish, highlighting the main ingredient while coaxing out subtle layers of flavor and complexi- ties and causing a dish to morph from mere sustenance to something utterly delicious, delightful and provoca- tive. Think 1+1=3. Barrels, like spices, can add subtle, familiar, recog- nizable and well-liked layers of flavor and aromatics to wine, like vanilla, clove and cinnamon. When introduced and integrated with care and subtlety, these flavors and aromas can enhance the main ingredient (i.e. Chardonnay) and the overall enjoyment of that wine. When introduced in a more obvious manner (some may say heavy-handed), the effect may actually detract from the core essence of the varietal (think high alcohol, jammy, inky purple Pinot Noir or highly oaked Chardonnay). Spice Rack Barrel aging is not formulaic. Just as a chef is careful in spic- ing a delicate veal dish, so too are winemakers thoughtful and careful about their use of oak. Certain varieties from specific vineyards might be able to handle more exposure to the compounds in a barrel than others. Just as some dishes can handle more spice than others, some vineyards and varieties can handle more oak. Cabernet Sauvignon from an important vineyard might easily accommodate (and in fact might benefit from) a higher percentage of new oak. Pinot Noir, on the other hand, might require a more subtle hand. At the end of the day, the goal is to create balance. We are a society of "more is better," but a heavy use of oak in winemaking often leads to diminishing returns. In our quest to craft wines that are seamless, integrated and balanced, the subtle, thoughtful and restrained use of oak lets us highlight the vineyard and the variety—not the wood—so that you might have a more enjoyable wine expe- rience. So when you are enjoying your next glass of wine—a wine that you believe to be seamless, integrated and bal- anced, which brings a smile to your face and is outright deli- cious—please know that a vintner or winemaker somewhere has put quite a bit of thought into that amazing wine as an expression of a vineyard and variety. Cheers! Barrels of estate Pinot Noir age in the cellar at Sanford Winery in the Sta. Rita Hills, in Santa Barbara County. PHOTO: JEREMY BALL ■cr