Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/724773
7 0 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t "It's all about the flavors," said Adam Harris in his address to The Women in Whiskey Society, which had gathered at The Cooperage American Grille in Lafayette, CA, to explore cocktails, several Knob Creek expressions and a heavenly bourbon-infused menu. When asked about trends, Harris pointed to the diversity and range of styles found in full-flavored American whiskies: "Knob Creek is a quintessential bourbon that gives you a 'Kentucky hug' of warm vanilla, caramel, spice and oak that are the hallmarks of our brand." As he led the tasting, Harris paid tribute to the many women who've played pivotal roles in the industry, including Elizabeth "Bessie" Williamson, who started her career in 1934 as a secretary at the Laphroaig Distillery, Booker's Bourbon's Annis Noe, and notably, Marge Samuels, who was key in the birth and legendary branding of Maker's Mark. Bourbon is a spirit that lends itself particularly well to use in the kitchen, and Chef/Partner Erik Hopfinger and Pastry Chef Laura Salazar used Knob Creek vari- ous ways in each course. The versatility of Knob Creek 100 Proof was undeniable when it was paired with oysters Rockefeller. The sweetness of the bourbon played against the saline oysters in an unexpected and delicious way. As America's oldest style of whiskey, Knob Creek Rye—made from a majority of rye in the mash and batched from barrels aged between four and 12 years—was a crowd pleaser with grassy rye bread notes, a hint of vanilla and a mellowness from corn, which makes up the balance of the spirit's blend. Harris pointed out that corn-based bourbon came into its true prominence as the nations' preferred whiskey style after Prohibi- tion, while rye, which is a sticky, challenging grain to work with, was the spirit distilled by our nation's forefathers. A pairing of rye-macerated whole-seed mustard added layers of flavor to Chef Hopfinger's bourbon-glazed salmon dish. "Honey barrels," those selected by the Master Distiller, are used to craft Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve, a 120-proof, deeply-colored expression with flavors of roasted nuts, bold vanilla a hint of smoke that originated in deeply charred barrels. "Historically when a Master Distiller was making a selection he would look for barrels that were shiny from being routinely sampled; these tasty barrels were known as honey barrels," Harris explained. Spirits find their way into many of the desserts created at The Cooperage by Pastry Chef Laura Salazar. She pointed out that in addition to adding flavor, alcohol keeps gelatos and sorbets scoopable, and whiskey pairs particularly well both with fruits, such as strawberries, and with chocolate. Her cloud-like Knob Creek bread pudding, a masterpiece of custard-soaked brioche, caramel and candied bourbon-macerated pecans, skillfully mirrored Knob Creek's flavors. —Deborah Parker Wong rations. While Feniger's food crosses many genres, from her gourmet Mexican cuisine served at Border Grill or the high-end comfort food served at Mud Hen, there is still a common thread that runs through her cooking: big, expressive flavors. And Knob Creek knows a thing or two about big, bold flavors: Adam Harris explained, "I love Susan's enthusiasm! She starts from scratch with the flavors and is able to find something in each of the whiskeys that would complement the food, while staying true to the style of her restaurant." Feniger added, "We're known for strong flavors, and that's what our food is. It happens to pair well with whiskey! I always try to think about flavor profiles: sweet, salty and a lot of Southeast Asian influences that combine those two together. Whether it's strong spices like cumin or pancho, we try to find the right ones that pair with the smokiness of whiskey." Throughout the dinner, both Harris and Feniger spoke on cooking and pairing the food with whiskey. Harris complimented Mud Hen's cocktails paired with the meal: twists on a classic Whiskey Sour and Man- hattan, which he said "had flavors that highlighted the restaurant's flavor." Feniger chose to put a Whiskey Sour on the menu because according to her, "It's a great easy-to-drink, intro-to-whiskey-drinking cocktail, while the Manhattan is a more experienced drink." Feniger confessed that she used to drink only vodka, but has recently discovered the wonderful world of bourbon and Scotch, something that she has embraced in her cooking as well: "The aging characteristics of whiskey bring such strong flavors to the table, and notes of vanilla and caramel really add depth and boldness to dishes. It's like eating in liquid form!" She added, "Good whiskey and good food have a lot in common. You're not just drinking Bourbon even made an appearance in the red butter lettuce salad in the form of Knob Creek Bourbon–candied walnuts, along with blue cheese, beets and a mustard vinaigrette. PHOTO: DUSTIN DOWNING PHOTO: DUSTIN DOWNING Cooking with Knob Creek at The Cooperage American Grille Knob Creek bread pudding, one of Pastry Chef Laura Salazar's house favorites, mirrored the hallmark flavors of Knob Creek. PHOTO: STEPHANIE SECREST