Winter Fancy FoodShow Booth 1327
Boxcarr Handmade Cheese
Cottonseed (North Carolina):
Operated by siblings Austin and Samantha
Genke, Boxcarr makes a variety of cheeses
inspired by northern Italy, including this
Scimudin-style bloomy-rind square. The
recipe calls for a blend of cow's and goat's
milk and a culture cocktail that includes
both Geotrichum and Penicillium candi-
dum. Weighing about 1 pound and matured
for two to four weeks, the cheese smells of
mushroom and truffle and is super-runny
when ripe.
Central Coast Creamery
Seascape (California):
Combining pasteurized cow's and
goat's milk in equal parts, chee-
semaker Reggie Jones has created
a cheddar-style wheel with layered fla-
vor. "You get the cow's milk up front, and
then it finishes with the goat's milk," says
Jones. "It makes a much more interesting
cheese." The 10-pound wheels are ready in
three to four months thanks to the addi-
tion of a culture that accelerates ripening.
The creamery's recipe veers from the tradi-
tional cheddar process—there's no stacking
or milling of curds—and yields a moister,
creamier mouthfeel akin to the texture of
young Gouda.
Hook's Cheese Triple Play Extra
Innings (Wisconsin):
Tony and Julie Hook, renowned for their
aged cow's-milk cheddars, are having fun
with this new creation, which they debuted
in 2014. They won't reveal the milk ratios,
but cow's, goat's, and sheep's milk are all part
with crushed black pepper, safflower oil,
rosemary, and vegetable ash. It's a mess to
cut but so worth it. The fragrance is buttery,
with floral peppercorn notes, and the finish
is tart enough to make your mouth water.
PHOTO: BELLWETHER FARMS
FALL 2018 41
