Specialty Food Magazine

Winter 2020

Specialty Food Magazine is the leading publication for retailers, manufacturers and foodservice professionals in the specialty food trade. It provides news, trends and business-building insights that help readers keep their businesses competitive.

Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1194330

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Page 100 of 115

98 SPECIALTY FOOD SPECIALTYFOOD.COM STORE TOUR (CONTINUED FROM P. 80) from near and far and are categorized in amber and rose options, textured whites, and cool and robust reds. Georgian, Grecian, Hungarian, and Lebanese wines share space with varietals closer to home from Amador County and the Santa Rita Hills in Santa Barbara. Even foraged Armenian teas and imaginative shrubs add to a beverage list that leans more towards the exotic and mystifying than familiar. The Kookoo Gimlet for example, combines aqua vitae, banana, parsley and a Greek spice mastiha. Likewise, a pharmaceutically named Penicillin features single malt whiskey, honey, ginger, lemon, and dates. With a no-reservation policy, Noosh typically has lines out the door for its dinner service. But for lunch—a spot at the bar or at one of the tables for two is much easier to come by. And during the day—with breezes wafting through the open eatery—it takes very little imagination to be transported to an al fresco lunch on the shores of the Mediterranean. —T.H. Street space—the longtime home to the revered Pacific Heights Bar & Grill and more recently Thai Stick. Almost one year to the day, Noosh, which is Farsi for lovely, would open in March 2019 and serve its first Turkish flatbread and muhammara dip to eager customers. "We are trying to capture and celebrate all of the influences of this specific region. We draw our border where Italy ends and explore Turkish, Armenian, Greek, and Persian cuisines," explains Sayat who is Armenian and grew up in Istanbul. The bright, mostly white space with floor- to-ceiling windows and a sleek modern bar has a welcoming, cheerful vibe. Several different dining areas, including a mezzanine with cozy alcoves, a comfortable grey banquette accommodating multiple two-tops close together (for a communal experience), and a private dining room complete with another bar and splashy blue painted mural, adds to an inviting space. But it's the food at Noosh that is truly exceptional. Small Plates A very manageable menu features a handful of small plates including lamb meatballs with a pomegranate tomato sauce and hazelnut dukkah. Several spreads include a house-made smoked yogurt with aleppo cucumbers, kale- tahini phkali with smoked onions, and a red pepper muhammara the chefs make with almonds and other unidentifiable but sweet and tangy flavors that elevate the classic dip to something altogether new. Three pita sandwich options are available and a dramatic pork soujouk is a generously sized flatbread dotted with a spicy pork sausage, melted cheese, and an egg—heaven on a wooden board. Tying together the Grecian-like decor, white and blue metal tableware adds a festive, casual flare to the dining experience. Assorted kebabs are also featured prominently on Noosh's menu and include a couple of interesting vegetarian options like a halloumi kebab with Szechuan rose honey and a sunchoke version with lemon zhug. The restaurant's wine list features selections "We are trying to capture and celebrate all of the influences of this specific region. We draw our border where Italy ends and explore Turkish, Armenian, Greek, and Persian cuisines." PHOTOS: AUDREY MA Janet Fletcher writes the email newsletter "Planet Cheese" and is the author of Cheese & Wine and Cheese & Beer. Tanya Henry is a San Francisco-based freelancer writer.

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