Specialty Food Magazine

Winter 2020

Specialty Food Magazine is the leading publication for retailers, manufacturers and foodservice professionals in the specialty food trade. It provides news, trends and business-building insights that help readers keep their businesses competitive.

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An array of new Italian introductions is drumming up excitement at the cheese counter. Italy's New Wave BY JANET FLETCHER 36 SPECIALTY FOOD SPECIALTYFOOD.COM CHEESE FOCUS ways they never have before," says Aaron Kirtz of Forever Cheese, the New York-based importer. "There's a lot of broadening of perspective and flavors and taking risks on things. It's not as traditional as it always had been." Kirtz points to the expanding use of water-buffalo milk and a resurgence in cheeses coagulated with thistle rennet as examples. The adventurous Sergio Moro of Moro Formaggi in the northern Italian province of Treviso is among the risk takers who have helped lead the flavor revolution. His Sottocenere al Tartufo, with its spice-rubbed rind, opened the floodgates on truffled cheeses, and Moro has continued innovating since. N o cheese merchant can afford to be without the Italian classics, from earthy Taleggio and piquant Gorgonzola to Parmigiano-Reggiano. But cheese counters today need to make more room for a tidal wave of newcomers from Italy. Scented, spiced, wine- soaked, and leaf-wrapped, these newbies signal a fresh infusion of creativity in a cheesemaking culture not known for invention. To stay current and keep your mongers and customers engaged, give some of these new Italian arrivals a test run. They may require hand selling, but they will position you as a cutting-edge retailer and help your counter stand out. "Italians are experimenting with milk in "There's a lot of broadening of perspective and flavors and taking risks on things. It's not as traditional as it always had been."

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