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I recently returned from a two-week ship expedition to Antarctica, voyaging from the tip of the continent to well south of the polar circle. Once a bucket list destination now turned addiction, all expectations were exceeded by this pristine wilderness at the bottom of the Earth. Far from the ice and cold that one envi- sions, Antarctica is a continent of great diversity. Vast textured plains and majestic mountain ranges stretch across the peninsu- la and into the hear t of the land. Snow- capped peaks reach into the ether and plunge into the sea. Veiled clouds drape over summits and paint the blue sky like an ever-changing canvas. Remote bays reveal whales, seals and penguins, along with shore birds soaring across the waters. As an aficionado of light, of particular inter- est to me is the way light moves and how it falls across the earth, illuminating and casting shadows. The continent possesses a rarified light because of the exceptional clarity and transitioning weather, creating sensational visu- als wherever the eyes search. Shades of blue, black and white form one visual masterpiece after another. These qualities have hypnotized ar tists and devotees who return again and again for another fix of the sublime. Antarctica recalibrates what you think you know. Before long, it reminds the most indomitable spirit of the concept of mor tali- ty, while at the same time encouraging dreams of exploration. It inspires contempla- tion yet escapes the grasp of human com- prehension, existing too far beyond our view. The surreal grandeur of the continent exceeds all expectation. Coexisting here is a balance of grace and magnitude of the most epic propor tion. Imagine traveling to another planet through a wave of transcendental experiences, finding oneself on an unparal- leled spiritual journey. Our ship traveled through sparkling chan- nels, past an endless procession of sculptural icebergs and playful wildlife. Each moment revealed one "art" piece after another in a dynamic living museum shaped by time. Standing on the prow of the ship, one imag- ined how an astronaut must feel, and yet this seventh continent is still right here on Earth. C A R M E L M A G A Z I N E • S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 6 169

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