New cheesemakers have struggled to find cow's milk that isn't under contract. "That's why Oregon artisan cheese is going to be goat cheese," says Vern Caldwell of Pholia Farm. "It's easier for small-farm management and the family lifestyle."
CHEESE FOCUS Ancient Heritage Dairy's
soft-ripened
Adelle (cow-sheep) fit that bill, but Jones particularly admires Perrydale, a Gouda- style cheese from Willamette Valley Cheese Company made from cow's and sheep's milk. "It reminds me of Gabietou," says Jones. "It's my favorite cheese in the state."
Community and Academic Support
Ho Will Y r M t evré um e Today?
Like Vermont's cheesemakers, Oregon's creameries are getting valuable technical sup- port from the academic community. Lisbeth Goddik, a dairy foods professor at Oregon State University, spearheaded the creation of a licensed dairy plant at the school in 2009. The school's cheesemaking classes help existing producers sharpen their skills, and cheesemakers-in-training can use the facility as an incubator, to house and guide them as they develop their first products. Goddik in turn credits David
Gremmels and Cary Bryant of Rogue Creamery for setting a tone of cooperation and mutual support among the state's cheese producers, large and small. "I don't think you can underestimate their influence," she says. "These two gentlemen do more than make cheese. They are Oregon cheese."
Tumalo Farms' cellar rack
18 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE ❘ specialtyfood.com
PHOTO: TUMALO FARMS
