The
American Cure I
Across the country, artisanal domestic cured
meats are revolutionizing the charcuterie industry. by Kristen Bieler
f you've noticed charcuterie cases becoming more crowded lately, you're not seeing things. "What has happened to cheese in this country over the past 20 years is what is happening with charcuterie now," says Michael Giarraputo, director of sales and marketing for Fra' Mani Handcrafted Foods, Berkeley, Calif., founded by chef Paul Bertolli in 2005. The company's hand- stuffed salami and Old World–style Italian mortadellas and pancettas are working their way into gourmet shops and mainstream grocers across the country, challenging the deli counter dominance of what Giarraputo calls "the big three": roast beef, roast turkey and cooked ham.
PHOTOS: MARK FERRI; FOOD STYLED BY LESLIE ORLANDINI; PROPS STYLED BY FRAN MATALON-DEGNI
Opposite page (clockwise from left): Belmont Butchery Duck Prosciutto, Larchmont Charcuterie Pork Saucisson, Kissel's Cherry Fennel Jam, Formaggio Kitchen's Bacon Pancetta, Jennifer's Homemade Flatbreads, Fatted Calf Fegatelli and Petit Sec.
This page: Alexian Pâté & Terrines' Duck Rillette (left), Low Country Produce Pickled Garlic (right)
MAY/JUNE 2012 55
