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owned by the EatGoodFood Group that's also behind D.C. area faves Restaurant Eve, Eamonn's, and Hummingbird. "When we were menu planning, we wanted to do the classic staples at first," he says. "These are things people who go to Filipino restaurants expect." The menu includes Philippine classics, such as chicken adobo and kinilaw, but the most popular dish so far has been Filipino Street BBQ, featuring pork belly cooked on a wood-fired grill and glazed with banana ketchup. "It's a nice contrast of smoky and sweet," says Dungca. Finding Its Way with Fusion While Dungca is enjoying the popularity of the classics, other chefs around the U.S. are seeking to introduce the public to Filipino cui- sine through fusion dishes that incorporate Filipino ingredients with other forms. Among them is Jordan Andino, chef and owner of Flip Sigi, which operates two fast-casual Filipino-Mexican fusion restau- rants in New York. He believes the Spanish and Chinese inf luence on Filipino cui- sine, along with the inf luence of the U.S. during World War I and World War II, have injected some familiarity into Filipino dishes. "This makes Filipino cuisine an easy transition for picky eaters," Andino says. "There are so many familiar ingredients and names in the foods that once people just open their minds a little bit, they taste things that they know with ingredients that make them want more." Filipino food is defined by both sweetness and acidic f lavors, he says, as well as its use of pork and whole-animal fabrication. "This means that as a culture, we use every element of the ani- mal, from the blood to the feet," he says, noting that this applies to all animals used in Filipino cooking. Andino's favorite Filipino dish, he says, is lechon, or whole roasted pig. "There are so many ways of preparing and consuming lechon or pork, but the crispy texture and succulent f lavor you get is truly unforgettable." The chef, a veteran of several fine-dining kitchens, includ- ing Jean-Georges, Spago, and The French Laundry, is happy that Filipino food is finally gaining recognition as a serious cuisine in the U.S. "It is part of the natural progression of adventurous diners looking for the next new thing," Andino notes.—M.H. A NEW APPRECIATION OF GREEK CUISINE H elped by consumer passion for Greek yogurt, other types of Hellenic food are gaining a new following. American consumers have long understood the health benefits of the Mediterranean diet—a food plan focusing on lean protein like fish, heart-healthy fats like olive oil, and ample fruits and vegetables—but many cannot describe individual Mediterranean cuisines. That's changing for Hellenic cuisine, say Greek food proponents, as the rise in popularity of Greek yogurt has introduced the U.S. to the diversity of Peloponnesian ingredients. global cuisine 126 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE specialtyfood.com