Specialty Food Magazine is the leading publication for retailers, manufacturers and foodservice professionals in the specialty food trade. It provides news, trends and business-building insights that help readers keep their businesses competitive.
Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/986636
F resh, rindless goat cheese is where a lot of American cheesemakers and consumers start their cheese journey. But aged goat cheese is a lot more compelling. With time, and depending on the recipe, many goat cheeses develop aromas of nuts and caramel, like cajeta or dulce de leche. They can be silky or creamy, with none of the chalkiness that drives many consumers away. Europe sends us some splendid aged goat cheeses, like Spain's Garrotxa and Majorero or France's blue-veined Persillé de Rambouillet or the lovely Jeune Autize, a goat's milk riff on Morbier. But until recently, America's artisan cheesemakers have done little to compete in this niche. The category is still slim—we could sure use more goat blues—but finally we have more than a few aged goat cheeses to celebrate. The Cheeses Here are some worthy American aged goat cheeses to consider: Andante Dairy Tomme Dolce (California): Cheesemaker Soyoung Scanlan initially developed this 9-pound wheel to transform summer's abundant milk into a product that would last until winter, when goat's milk was more scarce. Washed with a mixture of brandy and plum conserve, the tomme-style wheels are matured for about six months and develop captivating aromas of caramel, garlic, and dry-aged beef. The texture is semi-firm and smooth, the flavor deftly balanced between sweetness and salt. Tomme Dolce is admirably consistent and a reliable crowd pleaser. American cheesemakers are creating a slew of interesting and award-winning aged goat cheeses that can add depth to your offerings. BY JANET FLETCHER Goat Cheese Grows Up PHOTO: JULIANNA GARBER Capriole Julianna SUMMER 2018 31 cheese focus