Specialty Food Magazine

Spring 2016

Specialty Food Magazine is the leading publication for retailers, manufacturers and foodservice professionals in the specialty food trade. It provides news, trends and business-building insights that help readers keep their businesses competitive.

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3 2 dients allow for increased portion sizes, which enhances the perceived plate value to the customer." Restaurants are getting creative in their preparations and presentations of veg- etables. "Charred ingredients by wood grill, oven roasting, or smoking will be popu- lar," says Shipley, who gives examples of caramelized caulif lower with bacon bread- crumbs, winter squash tempura, and pars- nip and kale gratin. Chefs like Dan Barber of Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills, New York, are showcasing baby carrots with a ham dusting while in San Francisco, AL's Place offers vegetable-centric main courses with side dishes of meat such as pork belly, smoked brisket, and foie gras. These dishes are only the beginning. Shipley adds we will see the momentum build as health-conscious consumers continue to seek better choices. Rediscovered Jewish Deli Classics With more chefs exploring their roots and sharing their discoveries, chef-driven cui- sine reflecting Eastern European and Jewish culture is growing in popularity. Grandchildren and great-grandchildren of home cooks are re-emphasizing old-world classics like smoked meats and fish, chopped liver, pastrami, and matzo ball soup. Restaurants like Russ & Daughters in New York City—with its French trout roe-topped deviled eggs accompanied with "everything–spiced matzo"—have paved the way for others to explore, and personalize, traditional Jewish menu items, especially deli staples. At Mile End Delicatessen in New York, chef Tony Nassir showcases house- made meat menu items like the Grandpa— smoked turkey, smoked turkey leg rillettes, sour pickle, and mustard on rye—and Smoked Mackerel, which includes its name- sake ingredient as well as avocado, pickled shallots, and fennel slaw. In New Orleans, restaurant Shaya calls its food "Modern Israeli" with North African, Middle Eastern, Eastern European, Turkish, and Greek undertones. "The fascination with smoked foods and delis in general has grown in the past year," says Avram Wiseman, former dean of students at the Center for Kosher and Culinary Arts in Brooklyn and head chef of the Brat Factory in Harlem. "And the No. 1 menu item that has been instrumental in elevating Jewish deli-style foods," he says, "is pastrami." While old-timers like New York 's Katz's Delicatessen and Second Avenue Deli will remain timeless, Wiseman observes many newcomers doing interesting things. For example, NYC's Harry & Ida's is smok- ing meats and fish in-house while preserv- ing family tradition and heritage. That the menu includes high-ticket items like a $17-plus pastrami sandwich and a new $12 pastrami-and-egg breakfast sandwich doesn't seem to deter customers. "[Whether] a foodie or not—no one balks at price," says Wiseman. "It's a testament to the fascina- tion and ongoing awareness of people want- ing to try new things, especially smoked meats," he asserts. "Jewish-type foods are being rediscovered—not reinvented—for their comfort and f lavor." Creative, Ethnic Fried Chicken Inventive twists on classic fried chicken are giving diners new reasons to enjoy a familiar favorite. No longer only a Southern staple, "fried chicken sandwiches have gone creative and ethnic," Baum + Whiteman notes. "Chefs have spent the past decade re- establishing fried chicken and perfecting it," says writer Lee Klein, former food critic of the Miami New Times and founder of the food blog, lee2go. Klein points to Sakaya Kitchen in Miami for its use of Korean f lavors in its fried chicken. This iconic American comfort food can be found in both notable fast-casual and mainstream restaurants. Though burgers still ring in sales, fried or breaded chicken is becoming a favorite. The NPD Group reports that breaded chicken sandwiches have grown an average of 3 percent over the last four years, and in the year ending July 2014, 2.4 billion breaded chicken sand- wiches were ordered at U.S. restaurants and commercial foodservice outlets. culinary trends "Fried chicken has been America's No. 1 eaten food for ages and everyone has a recipe for it. Today's twists and touches of ethnicity pay homage to this iconic comfort food." "Jewish-type foods are being rediscovered— not reinvented— for their comfort and favor." Pastrami has been instrumental in elevating Jewish deli-style foods. 40 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE specialtyfood.com

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