Specialty Food Magazine is the leading publication for retailers, manufacturers and foodservice professionals in the specialty food trade. It provides news, trends and business-building insights that help readers keep their businesses competitive.
Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/165618
profile inventory. The retailer eventually hit the right balance and today St. James averages about 150 to 200 varieties, getting weekly deliveries from specialty cheese importer Larkin in New York. "The restaurant business supports our selections," Trosclair says. "We wouldn't be able to have half the cheeses we have if we only sold it retail." Old and New Favorites Customers trust the team to guide them to interesting cheeses and avoid any gourmet pretentions. Suttons had a mission—and experience, having begun their cheese careers at the 200-year-old Paxton & Whitfield in London, a legendary store that has supplied cheeses to such customers as the Royal Family and Parliament. The pair met while in school at Tulane University. After graduation Richard and Danielle moved to Philadelphia to pursue careers in banking and public relations, respectively, but found themselves wanting a different life. They moved to London in 2002, got jobs at Paxton & Whitfield and gained not only an education about cheeses but also access to the renowned cheesemakers and affineurs of Europe. They brought that experience back to the States along with inspiration for their new store's name, which comes from the St. James neighborhood where Paxton & Whitfield is located. The name also had a charming Louisiana connection: New Orleans favorite Louis Armstrong famously performed the song "St. James Infirmary." Isolation Challenges The Suttons had knowledge and passion, but they also had obstacles to overcome—specifically, getting in and keeping a variety of fresh cheeses. Unlike San Francisco or New York, where there are established markets for premium cheeses, New Orleans is behind that curve, St. James' cheese buyer Justin Trosclair explains. To have the volume of sales needed to warrant a steady delivery of premium cheeses, the store needed restaurant customers. But to get those chefs engaged, St. James needed to be able to promise consistent The cheese case is filled with such familiar brands as California's Cypress Grove Chevre, Washington's Rogue Creamery and Vermont's Jasper Hill Farm. But St. James also offers a range of Southern cheeses, such as Texas' Brazos Creamery white cheddar and smoked farmhouse gouda; Ellington, an ash-coated soft goat cheese from North Carolina's Looking Glass Creamery; and Dancing Fern, a Reblochon-style raw cow's milk cheese from Tennessee's Sequatchie Cove Farm. As for best sellers, Trosclair says that what does well depends on what the staff is most passionate about, and that varies. Customers trust the team to guide them to interesting cheeses and to avoid any gourmet pretentions. Lately, customers are enjoying some new discoveries that Trosclair is excited about, including cheeses from Virginia's Caramont Farms and Goat Lady Farms in North Carolina. Given the Suttons' background, the store also offers an extensive range of European cheeses. In fact, Trosclair believes that carrying selections from French affineur Jean D'Alos takes St. James to the next level—including the silky, semi-soft cow's milk cheese Saint-Nectaire Affine. Others in the case are the Wildespitz raw cow's milk cheese from Switzerland, Drunken Goat from Spain and La Tur three-milk, soft-ripened cheese from Italy. The Suttons are proud of their specialty food mix and wine and beer offerings. Staff favorites include Sweet and Sassy Mix from Rick's Picks, fruit spreads from Bathtub Gin, Zingerman's candy bars, Olympic Provisions chorizo, Bijou Wines and local beers from Nola Brewing and Bayou Teche. St. James is a popular destination for neighborhood locals to grab sandwiches and salads for lunch and, occasionally, dinner. Sandwich specials include fennel-rubbed roasted pork belly, taleggio cheese, garlic mayonnaise, Rick's Picks sweet pickles and arugula on ciabatta bread; white cheddar, house-smoked turkey, tomato, basil, avocado and mayonnaise on ciabatta; and Gruyere and caramelized onions pressed on multigrain bread. An Education—in Cheese and Beyond St. James regularly offers classes in partnership with other local vendors, which typically start at $25. Recent events range from Beer 101, featuring experts from Stein's Deli and Nola Brewing to Fête de Livarot, pairing the Normandy cheese with French wines, cider and Calvados. (continued on p. 111) 98 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE specialtyfood.com